Sew Minimalist Tops for Summer
Work with fabric squares or rectangles.
Wearing fabric squares or rectangles is as old as clothing itself. In ancient times, fabric came off the loom and onto the body with few or no manipulations. Togas, bog coats, and kimono are basically rectangles that were turned into garments with a few simple cuts and seams or simply with the addition of a belt.
Fast-forward a couple thousand years, enter my sewing room, and discover why I find it fascinating even today to work with rectangular fabric pieces and whole cloth. As my sewing skill set has grown, I am able to fold and dart and seam fabric into almost any shape I want. Patterns make it even easier to go from flat to 3-D, but I am still drawn to the simple square and seeing how little I can change it and still create a garment.
Experimenting with this idea over the years, I have created some masterpieces and many epic failures. I have learned a lot from both. Let me share some of those insights and maybe persuade you to try some square sewing of your own. You may discover that it’s hip to be square.
Consider the drape, or lack thereof
Humans are not rectangular, so we must make flat fabric conform in some way to our 3-D bodies. The more drape a fabric has, the less we have to do to it to get it to conform. So a square of rayon challis is going to be much more cooperative than a square of cotton drill for creating a minimalist garment.
Knit fabrics often drape nicely, but the stretch has to be managed in different ways when you are using a minimum of seams. I find knits great for garments that will be wrapped as part of the design.
The weight of the fabric isn’t always the best indicator of how much or how little drape it exhibits. Heavy linens can be drapey, while cotton batiste can billow and stand away from the body. I find fabrics with a lot of drape quality create elegant garments.
Proportions can make or break a design
I often run into a lot of “I can’ts” when I talk about square drapey garments, as in: “I can’t wear anything that’s too flowy,” or “I can’t have anything that makes me look bigger on the top (or the bottom, or the side . . . fill in your favorite.) These objections most often are a signal that the garment proportions are not appropriate to the wearer and/or the outfit. Clothing that falls effortlessly over our perceived imperfections is almost always more flattering than garments that have been darted and fitted too enthusiastically.
An easy way for me to think about visually pleasing proportion is to think in thirds. This works on lots of levels. Dresses often look nice hemmed at two-thirds the length from your neck to your shoes. This measurement usually lands somewhere in the knee vicinity. Blocks of color, e.g. pants and top, are pleasing if the pants are two-thirds the length and the top is one-third the length. Color blocking within a garment also looks nice when the principle of thirds is applied.
How does this work with flowy, drapey square tops? The same way. What this means practically is, you’ll want to crop that top. Don’t try to get it to cover your hips or your tummy. Instead, think about making it a pleasing length overall with your outfit. If that is working, the hips and tummy will take care of themselves. Focusing on an overall pleasing proportion will allow you to shine without drawing attention to any one feature.
Try this in front of a mirror
Put on a pair of pants and a different colored top that is about hip length. For most people, this will give a block of color for the top that is about the same length as the block of color for the pants. Now turn up the hem of the top until the proportion has been changed to one-third top to two-thirds pants. Is that better?
One thing to keep in mind with fuller tops is they take up visual space in volume—not just length. So you may need to shorten even more to get the overall one-third/two-thirds visual effect.
Starting with the right fabric and finishing with the right proportion will have you well on the way to a successful top. Here are some examples of simple squares or rectangles that were turned into garments with just a few snips or stitches.
When the weather heats up, there’s nothing better than clothing that touches as little as possible. Here are two examples using silk squares that are super cool.
Create a hole for the neck, then add two side seams, and you have a top.
I created another rectangular summer top using four gorgeous linen napkins.
The seams are at the shoulders and center back, while buttons close the front. The only cutting was opening the buttonholes.
Sometimes, staying “in the box” is the best way to get some out-of-the-box results. The possibilities are endless.
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