Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Essential Techniques: Rely on the Bias

For design options and construction ease, turn fabric on a slant
Threads #205, Oct./Nov. 2019
Article Image

When I sew, I try to make things easier for myself. I rarely follow the pattern instructions exactly. As I plan the garment construction, I look ahead to anticipate problems such as matching stripes or plaids. I recently realized that some of my go-to solutions fall into one general category: cutting garment sections or whole patterns on the fabric’s bias grain. This change can make construction easier or more efficient, or create an area of interest in an otherwise bland garment. 

The structure of woven fabric determines the bias. Lengthwise, or straight, grain (parallel to the selvage) is the warp. Crosswise grain (perpendicular to the selvage) is the weft. True bias is the 45-degree angle across those grainlines (see image above). When fabric is pulled at this angle—either when being handled or simply by gravity— the yarns can shift out of their perpendicular arrangement, according soft drape and flexibility.

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 42% and get a free gift


Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Shop the Store

View All
View More