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How to Sew Slot Seams

Highlight and bind seam in one process
Threads #207, Feb./March 2020
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Decorative slot seams can add so much interest to a garment. Backed with a contrasting fabric underlay, these open seams call attention to a garment’s style lines and to the sewer’s skill. Slot seams are a surprisingly easy upgrade to a basic garment.

The slot seam becomes even more effective when it also creates a clean interior finish for an unlined garment. The underlay strip that fills the gap along the seamline can also bind the seam allowances on the garment’s wrong side.

Choose a contrasting color, stripe, print, or metallic fabric for the slot underlay, as long as the fabric has two attractive faces. Think also of using contrasting thread for the topstitching. This slot seam can enhance a jacket, dress, skirt, or the side seams of pants. You can even apply it to make garments that are fully reversible.

1. Prepare the garment seams. Trim…

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