Thread Theory: Newcastle Cardigan

Cozy and sweater-like, this men’s cardigan is great for transitioning between seasons. The pattern includes two style variations. Variation 1 features a 5-1/4-inch-wide shawl collar, as well as front and back appliqués that mimic the look of yokes, with the option to sew them in a contrasting fabric. Variation 2 has a wider, 8-1/2-inch-wide shawl collar. Both versions include a center-front button placket with a five-button closure and one-piece sleeves that end in 3-1/2-inch-wide cuffs. The hem rests at the hips . Having no pockets reduces bulk and keeps the fit slim. The placket is marked with the button placement but not with the buttonholes. Sew the buttonholes vertically and slightly longer than the button diameter. The directions are accurate and well-illustrated, and all the sewing match points align.

• Our seamstress noted that the appliquéd yokes add a lot of bulk at the neck and sleeve seamlines if made of heavy fabric. Before attaching the collar, trim the seam allowances close to the stitching line to reduce bulk.
• Our tester found the sleeve caps had extra ease and recommended using gathering stitches to help set them in smoothly.

With few pattern pieces, this is an easy garment to sew. The pattern recommends medium-weight stable knit fabrics, including sweater knits, fleece, or ponte fabrics. Faux leather and/or contrasting fabrics are recommended for the yoke accents.

(Sized Men’s XS–XL for chests 34–44 in.)

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—Tested by Jenny Freedman, Soquel, California

Sewing Tip: Cord the buttonholes for support if your fabric is stretchy.

This review was originally published in Threads #210, August/September 2020. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Illustrations by Steven Fleck.