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Free Dress Project: Add Godets for Fabulous Flare

Create a custom dress with extra flare
Threads Issue #211, Oct./Nov. 2020

A godet is a triangular wedge of fabric sewn into a garment, either in an existing seam or within a cut opening. Its purpose is to add circumference, or flare, at a hemline. With godets, you can achieve a body-skimming fit through the bodice and hips and fullness around the hem. Godets create a pretty silhouette and enhance movement in a skirt or dress.

They require precise stitching, but there is a foolproof method that relies on fusible tape to install the in-seam variety. To learn the technique, try making the dress shown with six in-seam godets. A template for the design, in six sizes for bust measurements from 30 inches to 52 inches, can be downloaded here. Once you know the godet insertion technique, you can easily apply the method to tunic, skirt, or dress projects. 

Fabric options

Godets are shown to advantage in lightweight, drapey fabrics. In a flowing textile, a godet hangs beautifully when still, and swings out gracefully when the body is in motion. Stiff or crisp textiles create pronounced angular extensions. Chiffon, georgette, burn-out velvet, challis, charmeuse, or crepe are good fabric choices.

For design interest, try mixing fabrics when adding godets. Another option is to cut them on the bias or cross-grain, for spectacular results in striped or plaid material.

This article was adapted from “Waiting For Godet,” by Louise Cutting in Quick Stuff to Sew Winter 2011.

View the article by clicking View PDF below.

View PDF

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  1. user-7261537 | | #1

    This project looks like fun and it’s beautiful!
    When will the dress template be available for this project?

    1. carolfresia | | #2

      We have posted the template. Click on the highlighted text in the second paragraph above to be taken to the page where you can download and print the dress pattern. Enjoy!

      Carol Fresia, Threads Senior Technical Editor

  2. user-7261537 | | #3

    Thank you!

  3. vcacs | | #4

    You mention in step 7 to use fusible tape on the neckline binding. What type and brand of fusible tape do you recommend for neckline bindings?

    1. User avater
      smcfarland | | #5

      Great question. I prefer Vilene Melt Fuse. It is from Japan, and there are several sources online if you google it. I first purchased it years ago at a sewing expo from a West Coast vendor who imported sewing supplies from Japan. It is my favorite because it is a very lightweight and delicate fusible web, but effective. I believe it is available in 5mm, 10mm, and 15mm widths.

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