Cashmerette: Chilton Trench 5101

Trench coats are versatile and can work as fancy accessory coats or as utilitarian garments for daily life. The Chilton is a classic, belted, fully lined version designed for curvier figures and plus sizes. There are two length options, knee or midthigh, and the design has a collar on a collar stand, wide lapels, 1-3/4-inch-wide epaulets, and a small chest shield on the upper left shoulder. The front princess seams bear inseam pockets with topstitched pocket flaps. The two-piece sleeves have sleeve straps composed of a 1-1/2-inch-wide strap threaded through carriers and buttoned. The back features a buttoned rain shield, fish-eye darts, and a center-back seam. The longer view has an 8-inch-long kick pleat. The coat closes with buttons at center front, plus a 2-inch-wide self-fabric belt through belt loops. The buttonholes on the epaulets and pocket flaps are nonfunctional.

This is a well-drafted pattern, and much attention is paid to all the details. Notches and match points line up nicely and all seams match. The lengthy directions are accurate and easy to follow, with some outstanding tips throughout.

• The pattern includes accurate finished garment measurements, but our tester says she wishes there were a neck-to-waist, back length measurement and shorten/lengthen lines above the waist for those who have short or long torsos.
• Check that the epaulet point does not extend to the neck edge on your pattern size.

Use medium-weight woven fabrics. Make a functional version in water-repellant twill or gabardine. A dressy version would be lovely in brocade, jacquard, or silk dupioni.

(Sized 12–28 [C-H cups] for busts 40–58 in. and hips 42–58 in.)

Cashmerette.com

—Tested by Janith Bergeron, Barrington, New Hampshire

Sewing Tip: Eliminate the lowest button and buttonhole on the shorter version, as shown in the pattern’s fashion illustration.

This review was originally published in Threads #213, February/March 2021. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Illustrations by Steven Fleck.