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How to Sew a Well-defined Sweetheart Neckline

Threads #214, Summer 2021
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One of the design issues we’ve encountered relates to making a sweetheart neckline. Sometimes the neckline V at center front would not be as sharp as we wanted it to be. Instead it would turn out smooth or curved. Here’s a simple method to achieve a precise V in a sweetheart neckline, demonstrated in muslin. —Jude Jowilson

1. With the bodice and lining right sides together, stitch the neckline to about 1⁄2 inch from the center front. Pause with the needle down, and reduce the stitch length to 1.0 mm or 1.5 mm.

2. Sew to the V point. Widen the seam allowance slightly just at the V point. If the neckline seam allowance is 1⁄4 inch wide, for example, make it 3⁄8 inch wide at the center front.

Pivot with the needle down at the V point.
Pivot with the needle down at the V point.

3. Pivot with the needle down at the V point. Then stitch for about 1⁄2 inch, returning to the regular seam allowance width. Pause with the needle down in the fabric and return the stitch length to regular.

4. Make a clip at center front through both seam allowances. Clip close to the stitching, to allow the seam allowances to open smoothly. Turn the lining to the garment interior and press the neckline seam firmly when finished. This gives you the perfect V for a sweetheart neckline.Make a clip at center front through both seam allowances.

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