Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
How-to

Seam Finishes, Part 1

Threads magazine - 165 - Feb./Mar. 2013
Article Image
Straight-stitch 1⁄8 inch to 1⁄4 inch from the seam allowance's raw edge. The more the fabric frays, the farther from the raw edge you should stitch.

When do you think about the seam finishes for a new sewing project? Often, I suspect, many of us stitch the first seam then think, “What should I do with these raw edges?”

I’m always eager to plunge into a new project and see it take shape. However, I’ve produced enough raveled edges, weak seams, and generally disappointing garments to appreciate what planning ahead can accomplish. Here, I’ll share my simple techniques for sewing common seam finishes, as well as how to evaluate sewing projects to determine the right finishes to use where. It’s a process with the potential to improve your results time and time again.

In “Seam Finishes, Part 2,” you learn how to bind seam allowances, serge them, or sew flat-fell or French seams to enclose the seam allowances’ edges.

overcast seam allowances
Overcast seam allowances

Single-fold seam finish
Single-fold seam finish

Stitched and pinked seam allowances
Stitched and pinked seam allowances

Stitched together and trimmed seam allowances
Stitched together and trimmed seam allowances

Start with a test sample

Samples bring all the factors together. Cut on-grain rectangles from remnants, sew seams to join them together, and then experiment with the seam finishes that enhance your work. If the project will be machine-washed and dried, wash and dry your samples. You’ll find out which finishes are easy for you to sew, which stitches on your machine work best, and what looks good on your project.

Keep these samples. You’ll eventually have a seam-finish library that saves time in the long run. Remember, you may choose to use more than one seam finish in a project.

Let’s take a look at some typical seam finishes. Each example began with a 5/8-inch seam allowance. The seam was pressed as sewn, then the seam allowances were pressed open or to one side.

Zigzag or overcast seam finish

This treatment is suited to many materials. On fabrics that fray easily, such as medium to heavy linens, use a wider stitch. Though you can use an all-purpose foot, many sewing machine companies make an overcast foot that incorporates a horizontal pin on the right side. As the stitch forms, the needle swings right over the pin; the pin supports the stitch and prevents fabric from tunneling.

Stitch each seam allowance edge with a zigzag or overcast stitch. Choose the stitch based on the fabric you are using (see the photos at right for three variations). Keep the outermost stitch points just inside the raw edge.

Press the seam as it was sewn, then open.

three-step zigzag stitch
A three-step zigzag stitch stabilizes the edges and prevents fraying on a heavyweight woven cotton.

zigzag seam finish
This zigzag seam finish was applied to control a medium-weight woven cotton’s moderate tendency to fray.

overcast zig zag seams
An overcast stitch controls the seam allowance edges on a heavyweight woven cotton.

Single-fold seam finish

A single-fold clean finish is a good choice for lightweight fabrics that do not fray much. It can be modified for fabrics that fray more, such as handkerchief linen. It takes time, but it is neat and pretty.

Stitch 1/4 inch from the seam allowances’ raw edges. Turn under and press. (For a more delicate finish, stitch and turn under just 1/8 inch.) Edgestitch close to the fold. Press the seam again to finish. See the variations below for three stitching options.single-fold seam

Stitch-and-pink seam finish

This finish is appropriate for firmly woven, lightweight fabrics such as cotton broadcloth and silk charmeuse. It won’t press through as a ridge to the project’s right side. Use a thin thread, such as 60-weight cotton, to keep it as light as possible.

stitch and pink
Straight-stitch 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch from the seam allowance’s raw edge. The more the fabric frays, the farther from the raw edge you should stitch.

trim seam allowances
Trim the seam allowances with pinking shears.

Stitch together

These finishes can be used on woven fabrics, but they are particularly useful on knits to keep edges that curl flat and crisp. If you are working with a knit, sew the seam with a narrow zigzag (1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm wide).

Stitch the seam using a narrow zigzag stitch on knits and straight stitch on wovens.

Choose a wide stitch with a look you prefer, such as a three-step zigzag, overlock, blind-hem stitch, or zigzag—and sew the seam allowances together close to the seamline. See the variations below for different stitch options.

Trim the raw edges close to the second stitching. Press the trimmed seam allowances to one side.

seam 1 stitch 2
stitch 3 seam 4

This article, by Sandra Miller, was first published in Threads #165. Sandra tests designs and writes pattern instructions for Cutting Line Designs. She also teaches at sewing events across the country and sews for fun at home in Orlando, Florida.

Photos: Sloan Howard

 

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
View PDF
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 42% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Discuss

  1. mahedi | | #1

    Excellent content really must be appreciated. Please update more different Textile Details related update.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

More From Threads

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

Shop the Store

View All
View More