Pattern Roundup: Sewing Menswear, from T-shirts to Tuxedos
As you have probably heard, David Page Coffin, a major force in sewing and sewing menswear passed away May 2, 2021. He was a fixture at Threads magazine and was well-known across the country as a book author, teacher, and mentor to sewing students. His book Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (The Taunton Press, 1993) continues to be a favorite reference for those wanting to learn key techniques for making beautiful shirts.
At the same time, we have had more than a few requests to show some great menswear patterns. Your wish is (usually) our command.
The Ilford Jacket’s modular design makes for a pattern that is simple but can be customized in so many ways. It features drop shoulders and two lengths. There are two sleeve options—placketed with cuff or a boxy sleeve. As for pockets, the pattern offers many templates for endless possibilities.
Considered menswear, this gender-inclusive pattern is really for most everyone. Sizes XS to 7X (chest 32 inches to 60 inches, waist 24 inches to 53 inches, hips 34 inches to 63 inches); the design has plenty of ease, with 11 inches of ease at the hip for size 7x.
What would Father’s Day be without the traditional gift of a tie? This beginner pattern is an opportunity to work with children to make this for a loved one. With three different lengths, you can choose a size that fits the wearer’s height and style. Sew this tie in a variety of fabrics.
Users love this pattern. These classic jeans are loose fitting with a curved yoke back, a straight waistband and zip fly, and they come in two leg lengths. There is also an option to add belt loops and pockets. Sizes range from XXS to 4XL for waists 27 inches to 52 inches and hips 33 inches to 50 inches). Commenters note that these are a good option for tweens who have outgrown children’s sizes but are too small for men’s sizes.
The Jackson Tee and Pullover is another gender-inclusive design that just may become a staple in your collection. It has a slightly dropped shoulder and crew neck. The pullover features knit bands for the cuffs, and the hem that can be sewn in ribbing. Two lengths are provided for the tee and pullover. This pattern can be a satisfying beginner project. Make it in stretch knits with at least 10 percent cross-grain stretch. Sizes 0 to34 (chest 31 inches to 60 inches, waist 24 inches to 62 inches, hips 33 inches to 62 inches).
Ideal for a confident beginner, the game day jersey is a relaxed fit, short-sleeve shirt, which features a split hem at the side seams. Two neckline options—overlapped V-neck and crew neck—along with optional sleeve stripes, add to this jersey’s sporty look. Make it in team colors in sizes XS to 3X (chest 34 inches to 50 inches, waist 28.5 inches to 46 inches, hip 33.5 inches to 47.5 inches, bicep 11.75 inches to 15.75 inches).
This advanced-beginner pattern for a button-up shirt has front and back yokes, sleeve tabs, curved hem and optional pocket. Make it in a shirting fabric. Consider color-blocking the yokes, tabs, and pocket. This pattern runs true to size without much extra ease and comes in sizes XS to 2XL (chest 34 inches to 44 inches, waist 28 inches to 38 inches, hip 35 inches to 45 inches).
These relaxed-fit, straight-legged trousers are designed for maximum flexibility. The pattern is the perfect base to create styles ranging from denim jeans to another essential—water-resistant hiking pants. Variations and options include single-welt or patch pockets, curved front pockets, optional cargo pockets, and useful knee and hem reinforcements. Add an optional lining for warmth or as a protective layer. The pattern is sized for a 32-inch to 45-inch waists.
The Draper Polo T-shirt sewing pattern has two front buttons at the placket, a classic polo collar, and a front pocket. The silhouette is relaxed with side vents and options for short and long sleeves. Re-create a midcentury, luxury look with a fine wool jersey. Alternatively, go for a solid or striped cotton golf-shirt look. Men’s sizes range from 2XS to 4XL (height 5 feet 4 inches to 5 feet 10 inches, chest 28.5 inches to 48 inches, arm length 23.5 inches to 26.25 inches).
This classic shirt pattern has collar and collar band, front band, pockets, and sleeve variations. Four variations include short or long sleeves, chest pockets with or without flap, contrasting inside collar band/cuffs and front and back yoke. Men’s sizes 34 to 56 (chest 34 inches to 54 inches, waist 28 inches to 52 inches, hip 35 inches to 57 inches).
If you’ve come this far and haven’t found a challenge yet, this is for you.
The pattern manufacturer lists numerous details on the inside and outside of the fitted and lined jacket: It has a shawl collar, shoulder pads, side panels, no side seams, upper/lower pockets, inside welt pockets, button tab on the inside right pocket, back and sleeve vents, two-piece sleeves, button and buttonhole trim, and front button (bound) closing. The fitted and tapered pants also feature numerous extras. They sit below the waist and have a waistband, carriers, side pockets and bands, back button welt pockets, and a fly zipper closing.
So, you have a few skills to practice and become proficient at before you finish this project.
While black wool suiting is traditional, there’s nothing to keep you from embracing the trend for color, pattern, and texture in men’s formalwear.
Men’s sizing from 34 to 56 (chest 34 inches to 56 inches, waist 28 inches to 52 inches, hip 35 inches to 57 inches, shirt sleeve 32 inches to 35 inches, neckband 14 to 19.5 inches inches)..
Have you made any of these patterns? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery or tag us on Instagram with #memadethreads.