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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: McCall’s 8122 Lined Vest

Threads #215, Fall 2021
McCall's 8122 in wool twill from MoodFabrics.com.

McCall’s 8122

This lined vest from Melissa Watson for Palmer/Pletsch has a slight A-line shape, ends 4 inches above the knee, and is full of tailoring details. It includes a notched collar with lapel, bias-cut undercollar, faux welt breast pockets with flaps, angled welt pockets below the waist with flaps, armhole facings, and a single-breasted button closure. For shaping, there are front vertical darts, front and back princess seams, a side panel (no side seam), and a center-back seam. This silhouette is designed to have 5 inches of ease at the bust and 7-1/2 inches of ease at the hip. You will find plenty of match points that align correctly. Instructions and illustrations are accurate, detailed, and well written. Our tester would include understitching on the front facing from the lapel break point to the hem, to encourage these edges to lie flat. She says she can imagine it with the upper collar, facings, and pocket flaps made from contrasting fabrics such as velvet, velveteen, or satin. Take your time when sewing; pay close attention to the collar and lapel areas, and press well as you sew to show off your tailoring skills. Our seamstress recommends:

  • Add a small square of interfacing under all buttons.
  • Interface the fabric’s wrong side to support the lower pocket opening.
  • Hem the lining separately from the outer garment.

Choose silk matka, wool crepe, brocade, denim, gabardine, ponte knit, tweed, bouclé, corduroy, and menswear suiting. This garment can take you from casual wear to business wear to after-five attire. as a dress, as well as over other garments.

(Sized Misses’ 6–24 for busts 30.5–46 in. and hips 32.5–48 in.)


—Tested by Pam Howard, Newnan, Georgia

McCalls 8122 pattern illustrated

Style tip: Emphasize the style lines by topstitching the armholes, lapel, and collar with specialty thread.

This review was originally published in Threads #215, Fall 2021. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Illustrations by Steven Fleck.


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  1. desewtropia | | #1

    I would like to make this but I can't find it on their website. Can you link to the pattern?? Thanks, Teresa

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