Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Fabric Lab: Woven Piqué

Texture and a crisp hand go from formal to casual
Threads #198, Aug./Sept. 2018
Article Image
Craft the perfect all-season tunic in lightweight cotton piqué. Pattern: StyleArc Juliet Woven Shirt. Fabric: cotton piqué, MoodFabrics.com.

If you’re a fan of classic, easy-to-sew textiles, you may already have discovered the beauty of woven piqué. This fabric offers a firm drape, stable hand, and pleasing surface texture.

Piqué denotes a fabric created on a dobby loom, which has a special attachment that enables the loom to produce fabrics with small, raised geometric patterns. Woven piqué is traditionally made from cotton yarns, and its surface may appear padded, quilted, or embossed.

Early history

Developed in England during the 18th century, piqué made a fine addition to the cotton industry. Also known as marcella, or piqué de Marseille, the weave was created to imitate the look of corded Provençal quilts, known as boutis, made in Marseille. In the 20th century, piqué became a staple in men’s fashion and is associated with men’s white-tie attire, particularly men’s dress shirt fronts and waistcoats. Piqué fabrics absorb more starch than plain weaves, resulting in a stiffer shirt front, desirable for formal occasions.

Weave structure

Piqué is a double-cloth fabric, composed of two layers, each with its own warp and weft, with a definite right and wrong side. It is composed of one warp of fine yarns and one warp of yarns approximately twice as thick. The fine warp is woven in a plain-weave structure on the face of the fabric, while the thicker warp yarns are woven on the back of the fabric in a much looser weave structure. The thick warp yarns are raised onto the surface of the fabric at intervals, which joins the two layers and forms horizontal ribs or vertical cords in the fabric.

Texture options

You’ll find piqué in a range of weights and designs, from fine, cross-grain ribs to geometric patterns. Small diamond shapes characterize bird’s-eye piqué, while larger diamond or…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 42% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Shop the Store

View All
View More