Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Make a Tailored Jacket in Perfect Proportion

Find the shape and details to look your best
Threads #198, Aug./Sept. 2018
Article Image

During my years as a custom clothier and alterations specialist, my main objective was to ensure my clients always looked their best. My specialty was tailored garments, and I made lots of jackets. A high-quality tailored jacket is a mainstay of many wardrobes, from professional to creative and casual. My job was to refine my customer’s design idea and guide her in choosing a silhouette best suited to her body type. I’ll share the considerations I focus on, to help you find a jacket design that emphasizes your most attractive features.

Identify your figure type

Discovering the best garment shape for your figure can take some experimentation, as well as clear-eyed observations. I recommend evaluating your overall shape based on five common silhouettes:

  • Inverted triangle—wider shoulders, narrow hips;
  • Triangle, or pear—narrow shoulders, wider hips;
  • Rectangle—equal shoulder and hip width with little waist definition;
  • Hourglass—balanced shoulder and hip width, with clear waist definition;
  • Apple—well-proportioned, with most of the weight in the bust and torso, and slimmer legs.

There are variations on these shapes. When planning to sew a garment, keep your silhouette in mind, and select designs that create visual balance.

Choose a tailored jacket pattern silhouette

Think of clothing patterns as shapes, such as straight, A-line, flared, or cocoon. Coordinating the garment shape with your shape improves the chances of achieving a good fit and an attractively balanced appearance. Once you’ve mastered the basic fit, you can work with additional details to flatter your figure.

When you look for patterns, study the line drawings on the pattern envelopes. Notice the number, placement, and angle of seamlines. Note what fitting devices, such as darts, tucks, pleats, or gathers, are used. Remember that more seams provide more fitting opportunities. You may be attracted by…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 42% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

More From Threads

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Shop the Store

View All
View More