When you have a tried-and-true top or dress pattern, it’s natural to use it over and over with style updates. I came up with an open sleeve version that incorporates a contrasting fabric in soft ties, bringing a colorful detail to a simple tunic.

This pattern hack is a combination of the embellished sleeve trend and the cold shoulder look. It features a long sleeve that’s split down the center then tied together with fabric bands threaded through metal grommets. This change works best with a one-piece set-in or raglan sleeve pattern that is straight or tapered.

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Split the sleeve

The garment body does not change; only the sleeve pattern is modified. You will split the sleeve lengthwise, then add a cut-on facing.

1 Copy the sleeve pattern. Trace it onto pattern paper, transferring all marks and notches. If a raglan sleeve has a shoulder dart, remove it following the instructions in “Remove a shoulder dart,” below.

2 Find the sleeve’s vertical center. Using a ruler, mark horizontal lines across the pattern from underarm to underarm and wrist to wrist. Mark the midpoint on both lines and draw a straight line down the center of the sleeve. Label the sections “Sleeve front” and “Sleeve back.”

3 Transfer the grainlines onto the sleeve front and the sleeve back pieces. Make a mark 4 inches from the neckline on the center line. Label this “Shoulder point.” Cut the sleeve apart down the center line.

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Create new patterns

Add a cut-on facing to both pieces, which finishes the edges…