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Add a Low-Profile or In-Seam Pocket

It’s gape-free and nearly invisible
Threads #195, Feb./March 2018
Careful stitching and clipping control fabric layers to make a pocket opening that barely shows. Pattern: Burda 8155: Fabric: rayon jacquard, GorgeousFabrics.com.

Many garments, even those that are semifitted or fitted, can be made better with a discreet in-seam pocket. I have a great one to share with you. I use this technique to add invisible, no-bulk pockets to my clients’ custom or ready-made skirts or pants with side and waistline seams. It’s easier to build the pockets into a garment during construction, but you also can add them to finished pieces.

Inspired by a pant pocket from an expensive ready-to-wear line, this in-seam pocket is guaranteed to lie smoothly and neither pull open nor flare out. It adds functionality to a garment without disrupting the silhouette. This is not a fast and easy pocket, because getting it right involves precision cutting, notching, and a series of steps that include stitching, clipping, and turning. When the process is mastered, you will be proud to claim the technique in your repertoire and pleased with the attractive results. 

Customize the pattern pieces

First adapt the pocket bag to have the same side seam and waistline shape as your garment pattern. A full-size pocket pattern can be found here. Trace the pattern onto pattern paper.

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