Redesigning Sleeves, Part 4: Thinking Outside the Box
Initially, this design was inspired by another designer, the beloved Zandra Rhodes. As is often the case, though, this idea has taken on a life of its own.
I love handkerchief points on practically anything wearable, but on sleeves they can be magically fun. This sleeve takes the idea of a simple handkerchief hem and creates a geometric sleeve that not only allows for maximum volume, but still shapes like a sleeve with an under-the-arm seam.
A side view of the handkerchief hem sleeve reveals fullness even with a set-in sleeve.
This pattern is purely drafting with a little math, but I promise it’s simple math; after all, I’m a patternmaker, not a rocket surgeon . . . or brain engineer . . . or someone who uses math a lot.
Note: For the sake of photography, the pattern I’m showing you is not drawn to scale. However, I will provide you with the real measurements I used to create my pattern so there is no confusion. As always, substitute the measurements you need based on the garment pattern you are using. I’m drawing with a marker so you can see the lines, but it’s best to use a mechanical pencil to draft your pattern.
Do the math
1. Begin by measuring your front and back armhole seamlines. Add the two measurements. When I add 9 5/8 inches (back armhole) and 9 7/8 inches (front armhole) I get 19 1/2 inches.
2. Divide this measurement by 3. My measurement is 6 1/2 inches.
3. To this measurement, add 1/4 inch. This will add 3/4 inch ease to the sleeve. You can add more if you plan…