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The Perfect Blouse: Hem the Shirt

Video: Threads magazine

Achieve a polished-looking narrow shirt hem by following sewing instructor Sandra Miller’s demonstrated method in this episode of The Perfect Blouse series. Sandra explains how straightforward it is to hem the shirt: Simply serge, turn twice, press, fuse, and edgestitch.

She shows her technique using the View A design in The Blouse Perfected pattern from Cutting Line Designs. However, this process can be used on many other shirt patterns.

Trace the pattern

Before Sandra sews or even cuts the shirt fabric, she traces and marks a separate version of the pattern she wishes to use. This prevents any confusion later about which cutting and sewing lines to follow.

Hem the shirt

To hem the shirt, Sandra combines sewing and pressing in a series of steps.

First, serge the shirt’s raw hem edge.

Then turn the serged edge up on the wrong side and press. Sandra uses a stab pinning technique to hold the narrow folded edge in place before pressing. Learn in this episode what area she trims during this step to reduce bulk.

Repeat by turning up the edge again. Use paper-backed fusible web tape to secure the folded edge. Sandra applies this tape elsewhere while making the shirt: See two earlier episodes on making and attaching the pocket and installing the sleeve plackets.

Now edgestitch the narrow shirt hem. Watch this episode for Sandra’s tip to prevent the folded and edgestitched front hem edge from extending past the front shirt placket.

Coming up

Now that you have hemmed the shirt, it’s time to add buttonholes and buttons to the shirt front. Sandra walks through how to get them perfectly spaced in the next episode.


About This Video Series

Sandra Miller, from independent patternmaker Cutting Line Designs, hosts this 15-part series on constructing a man-tailored shirt. Sandra has come up with a method of sewing with precision and helps others to do the same. In this video series exclusive to Threads Insiders, Sandra walks through the steps for creating the shirt while explaining techniques for: shirt collars collar bands plackets four-button front sleeve plackets cuffs, and other details Note: Two new installments are released each week…

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