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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: DP Studio Le 600 — Blouse with Box Pleats and Elasticized Waist

Threads #222, Summer 2023
Tested by Johanna Mramor, Surrey, British Columbia. Sewn by Faith McLean, Cape Elizabeth, Maine. DP Studio: Le 600 Blouse. Fabric: cotton shirting, BeautifulTextiles.com.

Charming Pleated Blouse

DPStudio-Fashion.com

Skill Level:

It is a moderately time-consuming pattern but worth it for the unusual details and shape. The challenges are forming the pleats and dropping in the collar/stand unit. The instructions are translated from French, and terms that do not translate exactly might be confusing for less experienced sewists.

Size Range and Fitting:

The pattern comes in French sizes S to XL (36 to 48) for busts 32-3/4 inches to 43-3/4 inches and waists 24-3/4 inches to 35-3/4 inches. It is a loose-fitting blouson-style shirt, with an elastic casing that settles at the natural waistline. The finished garment measurements are not provided.

Fabrics:

Shirting-weight cottons, silks, or linens are ideal for the design.

Style and Sewing Details:

button and loop closure on back of blouse

This pretty blouse with its unusually shaped sleeves is suitable for many occasions. The sleeve cap extends to form the front and back yoke. From the front, the sleeves take on a dolman shape and in back they look like set-in sleeves. The blouse’s tailoring details include a two-piece shirt collar with stand, four inverted box pleats in front, and a curved back yoke. You have the option to leave the center-back seam open to the elastic casing or to stitch a portion of it closed.

  • The yoke interfacing is applied in a such a clever way that it also serves as the lining.
  • The narrow 1.0-cm-wide (approximately 3/8-inch-wide) seam allowances may make it difficult to line up and stitch the collar layers.
  • The preparation tips are detailed. Before starting, read through all the recommendations, as they contain important information.
  • Our tester found the construction order is not what she is accustomed to, but it made perfect sense in process.
  • Give the blouse a subtle creative twist such as a decorative drawstring instead of an elastic waist, ties instead of buttons at the back neck edge, or fancy buttons.

This review was originally published in Threads #222, Summer 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Kelly Keenan.

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