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Reimagining a Couture Look by Galliano

A 1993 designer collection served as the inspiration for an haute couture masterpiece
Threads #226, Summer 2024

Some time ago, I stepped back from years of creating custom couture wedding gowns and eveningwear. Other things demanded more of my time—teaching, writing, videos, Paris, life . . .  These days, my sewing is generally related to one of these other areas of work, plus the occasional piece for myself.  

A Special Request

When I was asked if I’d do a special couture wedding gown, I was intrigued.  I know these sorts of garments take many hours to create. But, as it would be a challenge (which I welcome) and a deep dive into what I love the most (couture construction), I agreed to do it. And I have to say, when you get it right, there’s no more magical project, and nothing more satisfying than seeing the bride in the dress of her dreams, feeling beautiful at that incredible moment in which her life is about to change forever.

The bride, Eva, is a follower of fashion, and she fell in love with a look from John Galliano’s Spring 1993 collection. She wanted to stay true to the original. From sourcing the fabric to engineering the extreme sleeve puffs, to figuring out the pattern for the bias-paneled skirt, I knew there would be plenty of design and construction conundrums to sort out. 

My friend Kenneth D. King collaborated with me to create the skirt pattern, and I was enormously grateful for his input and for the fun he brought to that part of the project.

A Galliano Design Reimagined

Throughout the creation of this outfit I was in my element and, by the time I had finished, the bride was clad in a custom version of the Galliano design. It resembled the original while including variations that make it perfectly personal.

Eva was thrilled with the result, and…

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