Fall brings with it the opportunity to play with silhouettes, layers, and a range of fabrics in textures and colors that can stand up to many styling approaches. While there are prevalent trends this autumn, the overarching theme is adding your stamp to whatever look you sew. It’s your prerogative to choose from or adapt garments, hues, and patterns to your taste: Truly personal style is always in fashion.

Indie inspiration

Several smaller, bespoke designers provided their takes on what is new, what persists, and what they are excited about. There is some overlap in mens- and womenswear.

Camryn McClain, founder and designer at Renee (ReneeNYC.com) says oversized silhouettes and baggy looks with denim are predominant trends of the season, especially wide-leg pants with a fitted waist. “That’s something that my brand does as well,” she says. “It’s easy to dress down or up.” She likes using a raw denim or other stiff fabric for this silhouette.

She also sees “a heavy focus on the nineties and 2000s nostalgia vibe, something that many pop stars, such as Tyla, are wearing right now.”

If you need a late 1990s and 2000s fashion refresher, think wide-leg jeans, sweatpants and track suits, bucket hats, and fur-lined puffer jackets.

McClain spends time in libraries and museums, and simply watching people on the streets in New York. “I just hang out in SoHo or Williamsburg [Brooklyn], looking at what people are shopping,” she says. “I do that for a few weeks, then I let any idea come to me and draw.”

Daniel Mofor is founder and lead designer of the menswear fashion brand Don Morphy (DonMorphy.com). With stores in Dallas and on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, Don Morphy specializes in custom suits for men. Mofor says men’s fashion is moving toward a wider trouser, as well as double-breasted jackets and layered looks.

He also notes the trend, mostly in the teenage and twenty-something demographic, of pairing an upscale suit with sneakers. Of his prom clients, 80 percent elected to wear sneakers with their $1,800 suits.

Speaking of individuality, LaTressa J. Miller, fashion stylist and designer (LatressaJMiller.com), goes in a different direction: She says her favorite way to add personal pizazz for her clientele of bold, confident women is with a contrasting color or bedazzles on blazer lapels.

Sewing the trends

Like designers and stylists, pattern companies need to understand their audience and identify trends that work for them.

Olga Grasser of Grasser Patterns (en-Grasser.com) is known for her attention to the latest fashion trends and her frequent new releases.

“I scan public mood, follow runway shows, pay particular attention to silhouettes and read a lot of articles,” she says. “I am attentive to details and I manage to sense trends.”

However, she’s learned to mix the trends with customer expectations, adapting them to everyday life. “Our customers are ordinary people who want to look up-to-date without becoming fashion victims,” she explains.

What’s new for you

Coats, especially the trench and toggle, are popular. Fuzzy and fake fur jackets and coats are in style, too. Other trends include the oversized look; boho chic; feminine, ladylike dressing; and a loud luxury/mob wife style reminiscent of the 1990s and early 2000s.

“There’s a lot of nostalgia about millennials’ times and bohemian parties,” Grasser notes. This includes flowy dresses made of graceful fabrics and blouses made from luxurious fabrics like lace, silk, and sheers.  “Lots of femininity comes into view in the next season,” says Grasser. “However, the oversized trend remains. There’s a synchronicity, though; everything complements each other.”

This season, there are tons of unique takes on classic T-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies with an emphasis on personal interpretation of everyday garments. This includes your color and/or fabric choice as well as unexpected pairing of pieces you might not normally wear together: a fleece hoodie with a pleated silk skirt, for instance.

As you plan your sewing for fall, consider the trends critically: How might they work with clothing you already own, and will you want to wear them in the future? There’s a good chance you’ll find something in this season’s offerings that speaks to your sense of style, or that inspires you to expand or redefine your style. Whatever that is, it will be all the more special if you’ll reach for the finished garment season after season, knowing it reflects your individuality.

 

Expressive Colors & Textures

Pantone’s palettes for fall include warm, natural colors with many wearable midtones and non-black neutrals. The New York palette, below, and the London palette include pale, cool colors, some deep purples and jewel-like greens, and juicy reds.

The fall/winter palette

In addition to the Pantone palette, designers called out some of their favorite trends: Grasser says that colors for fall and winter 2024 include dark olive, various shades of gray from dove to charcoal, and a plethora of beige. Featured is a luxurious dark cherry.  “People want to add deeper colors in their looks,” she continues. “Bright colors are also featured but in more relaxing shades.” For instance: purple, but a pale, dusty one; a buttery version of yellow and a subtle light blue, all of which possess a comforting effect.

Black remains as a key neutral, but dark brown re-emerged as an alternative. The runway also presented opulent, jewel-toned hues like deep navy, plum or eggplant purple, and dark green.

Speaking of green, Grasser talks about a brighter, more vibrant green, various shades of which “were interspersed among deep dark hues by such brands as Miu Miu, MSGM, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham, and others.”

“Pops of red are trending in the streets of New York as well as online,” says McClain, the Renee designer. Use neutral colors, such as the aforementioned shades of gray and beige, with pops of a bold color. According to Mofor of Don Morphy, there is a “movement toward bold and expressive colors.”

The gamut of fabric

Look for denim, cashmere and wool blends, tweeds, herringbones, and argyles. Try fringe, faux fur, looped yarn and textured fabrics—great for outerwear and oversized pieces. Sheers are still around, along with chintzy floral prints and luxurious silks. Mix as desired to create your perfect style blend.

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A New Take on Basics

Here’s an easy and practical approach to revamping your closet: Find your own way to wear fashion basics and to transform everyday items. Not every garment has to be a showstopper.

Reflecting the 1990s to 2000s nostalgia trend, a plethora of hoodies, sweatpants, and T-shirts appeared in the fall/winter shows but they featured unique iterations, whether in the fabric or color combinations or unexpected pairing of pieces.

Another way to approach this trend is by adding new design details to an otherwise basic staple piece, such as wrap trousers, a hoodie with a stylized high collar, or a vest as a top. And don’t forget hats. A newsboy cap in a funky fabric is the perfect topper to add something special.

 

Look for this icon ✚ Patterns with this symbol extend to sizes for bust measurements of 55 inches or more, and hip measurements of 58 inches or more.

Patterns to Try

Cecile Skirt from VikiSews: straight, below-the-knee skirt with curved godet on the right side; designed for nonstretch wovens

✚ Day Jacket from The Sewing Workshop: semifitted jacket with stand collar, banded hem, and chest patch pockets; up to size 5XL

✚ Genevieve Hoodie from Sonia Estep Designs: zip-front hooded knit jacket with curved front hem detail

Hoodie and Sweatshirt #735 from Grasser: pullover with hood or high, wrapped collar options, and princess-style
front seams

Hoodie Bundle from Chikafrick: three silhouettes, one with a front zip, all with kangaroo pockets

Newsboy Cap #1125 from Grasser: eight-panel cap with voluminous crown and double visor

✚ Pogonip Pullover from Friday Pattern Company: popover jacket with half-placket, welt pockets, and elasticized waistline

✚ The Sweat-Shirt from Tropical Research: straight-cut pullover with crew, cowl, and hooded versions

Trousers #1109 from Grasser: fly-front pants with full legs, cinched at the ankle to create a balloon-like shape

✚ Uno Zip Pullover from Sinclair Patterns: sweatshirt top with round yoke with zip or snap opening, and front pocket options

Vest #1116 from Grasser: princess-seam vest with half-belt in back and round neckline; can double as a top

 

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Outerwear and Coats

Trench coats, toggle coats, draped and folded outwear—in a range of fabrics, including real or faux leather—instantly pull together a look. Outerwear sewing is an investment in time and materials, and one that will pay off for years.

“We’ve just released an unlined trench coat (The Prado) that I’m especially excited about,” says Liesl Gibson of Liesl and Co. and Oliver and S (OliverAndS.com). The coat features princess seams to help with fitting, and the cape is sewn into the princess seams, “which looks really cool and doesn’t make it look too princess seam-y.”

Don’t be afraid to make a coat in a brighter, unexpected color, either. You don’t have to stick with the classic dark fall and winter colors.

Patterns to Try

Cascade Duffle Coat from Grainline Studio: classic toggle coat in two lengths, with hidden zipper and hood option

✚ Delaware Jacket from Itch to Stitch: zip-front jacket with four front pockets, a stand collar, and a cinched waist

✚ Grant Coat from Daughter Judy: shawl-collar, raglan-sleeve coat in short and long lengths; would work in real or fake leather

✚ Nutmeg Trench and Jacket from CocoWawa Crafts: A-line, button-front coat with flat collar, full sleeves gathered into cuffs

Prado Trench Coat from Oliver and S: princess-line coat with attached shoulder cape; includes jacket-length version

✚ Wren Jacket from Style Arc: drop-shoulder boxy jacket with patch pocketsand optional scarf

1930s Coatdress, Cape, and Muff #D03 from Decades of Style Reserve Pattern Collection: vintage fitted coatdress with attached capelet

 

 

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Full/fitted contrasts

Wide-leg pants were shown paired with close-fitting tops, as well as with oversized jackets and shirts. Layer as you like for a versatile fall/winter wardrobe.

For inspiration, check out fashion brand LR3’s (LR3-Studio.com) selection of voluminous pants and shirtdresses. The oversized trend falls within the gender fluidity mindset, with pieces that work on a variety of body shapes and sizes. Use lightweight plaid wools with bright splashes of color or go for a full-on pattern clash/mash-up.

Pants and jackets can be drapey or stiff, depending on your preferred silhouette. For tops, look for soft knits that cling or skim the body.

 

Patterns to Try

Pants

Cannes Wide-Leg Trousers from Liesl & Co.: pleated, fly-front trousers cinched with a waist sash

✚ Hakama Pants from Ndlwrkshop: deeply pleated pants with wrap waistband

Palazzo Pant, Overall, and Short #2328 from Sew Chic: wide flare legs, deep pleats in front with sailor-style button-front opening; includes shorts and overalls versions

✚ Tapioca Trousers from Jessilous Patterns: ultrawide pants with two pleats per side in the front

Vogue 9282: pants have a faced waist finish, center seams in front and back legs, a center-back zipper, and the option for button detailing on the front leg seams

1930s Ladies Trousers #D01 from Decades of Style Reserve Pattern Collection: pants have a fitted hip yoke in front and back, with a half-belt in back to adjust the waist fit

Tops

Erica Long-Sleeve Top from VikiSews: fitted knit top with an asymmetrical draped neckline

✚ Leia Top from Lore Piar: cap- or long-sleeve knit top with wrapped and shirred stand-up collar

Long-Sleeve Top #1072 from Grasser: knit top with criss-cross,
off-the-shoulder collar

Long-Sleeve Top #1073 from Grasser: knit top with draped, crossed front neckline detail

✚ Victoria Shirt from Sonia Estep Designs: beginner-friendly crossover bodice knit top

Jackets and Coats

✚ Clef Coat from Love Notions: cross between a hoodie and a bomber jacket, with drawstring waist, kangaroo pockets, and collar or hood option; to size 5X

✚ Den Jacket from Chalk and Notch: chore jacket in two lengths with snap front closure

Overshirt Komugi from Waffle Patterns: shirt-jacket with back yoke and vent, several pocket variations, and cuffed sleeves

✚ Portmanteau Shacket and the Roscoe Sweater from French Navy Patterns: two styles of workwear- type jackets; pullover sweater with quarter-zip front and front yoke

Vogue 1642: ensemble pattern with raglan-sleeve pullover with high neckline and front half-zipper; wide pants with back elastic waistband

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Boho Chic and Ladylike Dressing

Feminine style appears in dresses and blouses. Think back to the 1970s version of bohemian style: peasant blouses, cascading ruffles, lace, and caftanesque silhouettes. Also consider fluid dresses with high necklines, or trim 1960s sheath styles.

Peasant blouses and dresses are especially popular, but if you like a closer silhouette, you’ll find plenty of options. Styles range from body-conscious to voluminous. These designs lend themselves to fabrics from fancy brocade for evening to soft wovens or textured knits.

 

Patterns to Try

Flowing and full

✚ Briarwood Top from Cashmerette: top with gathered bust and neckline, raglan sleeves, midriff band, and hem ruffle

✚ Jenna Button-Up Shirtdress from Closet Core Patterns: classic shirt bodice, with full gathered skirt

Kirsi Cardigan from Forget-Me-Not Patterns: easy-to-sew cardigan with cascading front edges and a peplum-like back

✚ Majorelle Shirt and Dress from Itch to Stitch: front-button blouse and dress with raglan sleeves, bodice gathered into a band collar with or without a ruffle detail

✚ McCall’s 8241: knit poncho-like tops with sleeves; turtleneck and crewneck options; for busts to 48 inches but the design has lots of ease and is simple to grade up

✚ Nepheline Blouse from Vivian Shao Chen: billowy blouse with round neckline, with or without a ruffle; full sleeves with a tuck detail

Positano Blouse and Dress from Oliver and S: raglan-sleeve top with front and back yokes and gathered sleeves and bodice; short-sleeve and dress-length options available

Tata Dress from Tauko Magazine: zero-waste design that has a caftan-like silhouette; ideal for color- and print-blocking

Viriam dress from VikiSews: semifitted, bias-cut dress with inset ruffles in front and back princess seams and sleeve seams

Elegant and sleek

✚ Birdy Dress from Stokx Patterns: princess-seam dress with curved back waistline seam and neckline bow

Kyoto Dress from Oliver and S: simple shift dress with V-neckline, inverted box pleat at center front, and long or short sleeves

✚ Magda Dress from Pattern Fantastique: a medieval-inspired dress with full sleeves, diagonal style lines on the bodice and skirt, and a sleek A-line skirt

Renikeji Dress from Sew Explicit Patterns: knit dress or top with funnel neckline and asymmetric drapes that form a flower detail on the bodice

Snowball High-Neck Dress from Waffle Patterns: a ‘60s-inflected dress with funnel neckline, cap sleeves, princess seams, and a curved waistline seam

Sonia Long Dress from Maison Fauve: dress with bodice gathered into waistline seam, full, gathered long sleeves, and A-line skirt with inset godets

✚ Transformation Base Dress and the Transformation Collection from George and Ginger: classic sleeveless sheath dress with a range of add-on details, such as overskirts, trains, and capes

Vogue 8980: full, gored skirts in three lengths

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Mob Wife Style, Early Aughts

Remember the quiet luxury style of the past few seasons—subtle and understated pieces devoid of conspicuous labels and anything that might be perceived as flashy? Well, this is the exact opposite of that.

The shift toward loud luxury, if you will, has a focus on the “mob wife” style of the early aughts: leopard, fringe, leggings, form-fitting jumpsuits, body-conscious dresses, faux fur (not just for coats but miniskirts too), black on black, spiked heels, and lots and lots of gold. Don’t forget to accessorize with an appropriately sized tote, fur-lined or trimmed if possible. Be bold and have fun!

Patterns to Try

✚ Columbus Knit Legging from Style Arc: paneled athletic legging with side pockets

Ethel Tote Bag from Swoon Patterns: trapezoidal bag with ample proportions, to make in the fabric of your choice

Fabia Dress from VikiSews: full-length dress with deep V-neckline and pronounced shoulder shape

✚ Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns: five-pocket jeans for stretch denim, in skinny or straight-leg cuts

Lora Dress from True Bias: empire-waist dress with long, full sleeves and fitted skirt; button-and-loop front closure

McCall’s 7847: lined jackets in three lengths, suitable for faux fur

McCall’s 8360: fitted, strapless jumpsuit with sweetheart neckline

✚ Queenie Woven Dress from Style Arc: close cousin to The Vampire’s Wife designs

Sweet Winter Vest from You Made My Day: lined vest with high collar and button-front closure; try this in faux fur

Vogue 1906: body-conscious dress in two lengths, with bodice overlay and one exposed shoulder

 

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Vanessa Nirode is a freelance writer and patternmaker and tailor for television and film.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Color samples: courtesy of Pantone Color Institute.

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