Bra-making entered my life the same way it does for many sewists: out of frustration. Petite and barely a B cup, I couldn’t find any cute bras or bralettes in my size. So I said those famous words, “I can make that!” The timing was fortuitous. I was working in technical design for Anthropologie and had to spec, fit, and approve lingerie samples. To understand the category better, I decided to make an underwire bra. I quickly realized that finding patterns, fabrics, and supplies was extremely difficult.

That was nearly a decade ago and since then, I’ve been on a mission to offer size- and gender-inclusive patterns and styles. Everybody deserves to feel and look good in lingerie. 

Understand The Size Conundrum

The search for the right size in lingerie can feel like an impossible mission, as there are so many parts of a bra that can pinch, squeeze, or poke you. You may want to admit defeat or just go braless. Don’t give up.

The first step to well-fitting lingerie is to take measurements. There are no sizing standards by bra companies. Each brand determines their own bra sizing, and that sizing might even vary from style to style. Plus, bras need to fit well in several places, and your body is unique. Focus on measurements, not on an arbitrary size that a brand determines. Your measurements do not define you. They are a tool for achieving the best fit.

Commit to Fit

The most accurate way to test a bra’s fit is to make a test garment, called a toile. The great thing about toiles in bra-making is that they are quick to sew. Test cups take a few minutes, a fitting band takes approximately an hour, and a full toile takes shape quickly after…