Cozy, Unlined Jacket
Skill level
Depending on the chosen fabric, this straightforward project may become more complex. The most challenging aspect is the buttonholes. Sewing them on the front band seam interfered with smooth feeding of the fabric due to the adjacent seam allowances. Our tester came up with a workable solution by manually stitching a double buttonhole. The first pass was done in a longer length and then the second done on top of this reinforcement.
Size range and fitting
Sized US 4 to 30 for busts 30 1/4 inches to 58 1/4 inches, waists 23 1/2 inches to 50 1/2 inches and hips 32 1/2 inches to 61 inches. It is loose-fitting and can be worn over sweaters, jeans, and other bulky garments. Size 10 measures 44 inches at the bust and 46 inches at the hip.
Fabrics
The pattern recommends wool, linen, faux fur, or velvet. Boiled wool is another choice. Make it in a single color or try color-blocking. This is an ideal design for double-face fabric; you can make the coat reversible. If you choose double cloth, separate and use only two layers total for the front band.
Style and sewing details
This boxy, knee-length coat features unconventional seams and panels.
• It has a slight funnel neckline, dropped shoulders, two-piece sleeves, center-front button/snap band, and angled front pockets.
• The neckline and hems are bound. Binding fabric with a different texture from the coat adds to the style.
• The sewing instructions list helpful hints as well as a QR code, leading to a tutorial with photos for every step.
• There are plenty of accurately placed match points. Undersleeve seam and side-front seams require attention to have them joined correctly. Follow the assembly points marked with letters on the patterns.
• Our tester recommends adjusting the width of the topstitching to suit your fabric. For the thick wool, she used a wider spacing.
• Reinforce the inside corners with staystitching before clipping. On the outside corners, stitch a guide line to enable precise matching to the inside corner.
• Test construction methods on samples, especially if you are working with a challenging fabric. It is difficult to rip out and redo the inset seams and buttonholes.
Pattern tested and sewn by Eve Kovacs, Sandy, Utah.
Fabric: wool-blend double-cloth twill coating, MoodFabrics.com.
Illustrations: Steven Fleck.
Photo: Jack Deutsch.
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