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Try Modern Appliqué on Your Next Jacket

Add boro stitching for even more detail
Threads #227, Fall 2024
Photo: Jack Deutsch

Pieced, patched, hand-stitched, and cutaway techniques for clothing have been around forever, but emerging brands have come on the scene that are highlighting these vintage artisan skills.

Brands such as By Walid produce clothes that speak of craft, history, and quality. A medley of textiles from around the world are reinterpreted and modernized into one-of-a-kind hand-worked heirlooms.

Mieko Mintz uses ethnic textiles in the kantha tradition to produce unique jackets that are rich in color and comfort. Aneeth Arora, the designer behind the Péro label, is one of India’s most respected young designers. She gives traditional Indian textiles a western design sensibility while maintaining an emphasis on sustainability.

At The Sewing Workshop, we have had a long-standing interest in the fine craft of clothing construction, but we also enjoy breaking out of just making everyday garments into sewing artistically rendered, keepsake pieces. Our most recent interest revolves around two methods of making “fractured jackets”—pieces that break up and reassemble two or more fabrics into something new and individual.

The two techniques described in this article are based on the idea of layering two fabrics and exposing bits of both layers by the process of appliqué or reverse appliqué. Neither of these techniques is new. Our interpretations have been influenced by the ancient method of boro stitching, which is the practice of making new cloth by patching, mending, and repurposing worn-out clothing. When these techniques are used in modern clothing, the results are contemporary and fresh.

The techniques shown are extraordinarily versatile and can be applied to garments, accessories, or soft furnishings. They offer a creative way to make use of scraps from your stash. In the process, you may discover color and texture combinations you had never considered­—so give yourself permission to play and experiment.

 

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