As we move through our lives, our needs often change when it comes to clothing. Necessary wardrobe changes can be due to moving from one climate to another, changing body shape, or health challenges. Whatever the reason, adaptive sewing can help you customize what you wear to new and changing circumstances.
In my case, adaptive sewing is helpful as I care for my mother who has Alzheimer’s. She has moved to a stage where she struggles to pull clothing over her head and can no longer use buttons. We want her to remain as independent as possible, so I started looking for patterns that would work for her.
These tips and patterns are a good starting place for anyone looking to sew for people with disabilities.
- Choose Accessible Patterns
- Look for patterns with easy closures that feature zippers, hook-and-loop (Velcro), or magnetic closures instead of buttons.
- Select patterns that include adaptive elements like elastic waistbands, wider armholes, or fit adjustments that accommodate seated positions.
- Check out some of the patterns we’ve highlighted (below) for getting started.
- Hack Existing Patterns
- You can alter patterns to accommodate wheelchairs, crutches, prosthetics, or other mobility aids, by adding extra room in specific areas (like sewing arm gussets) or shortening garments.
- Incorporate adaptive elements into standard patterns, like adding side openings or converting button closures to hook-and-loop fasteners.
- Select Fabrics and Materials
- Select fabrics that are comfortable and easy to care for. Consider factors like breathability, stretch, and texture.
- Our Project Guide to Sewing with Knits provides information about knits, which are often ideal for meeting this need.
- Test and Fit Patterns and Garments
- We cannot stress enough the importance of creating a muslin/test garment!
- Make fitting adjustments during the sewing process to ensure the final garment is functional and comfortable.
- Get Inspired
- Visit Instagram to see the “Sewn Shown Seated” and “Disabled Sewist” and tag and follow sewists like @thewheeliestitcher and @purplesewingcloud for inspiration.
- Read about Sewn Adaptive, a company that alters and modifies ready-to-wear garments and creates clothing specifically for the disabled community.
Patterns to Try
Here are just a few patterns we recommend.
Ellie & Mac Hipster Dress
This pattern has the range and flexibility for fully customizing the perfect dress. It features cowl or hood options, side vents, optional pockets, midi or knee length. Opt for adding a kangaroo pocket for easier access and storage—another pattern by Ellie and Mac, the Tuesday Hoodie, has one as part of its comfortable design. Hipster Dress pattern comes in women’s sizes XXS to 5XL (bust 29 inches to 60 inches, waist 23.5 inches to 56 inches, hip 33.5 inches to 63 inches).
Simplicity Adaptive Patterns
With patterns ranging from accessories to clothing, Simplicity Adaptive Patterns has some of the best basics out there. The collection offers a variety of sewing patterns like adaptive tops, recovery gowns, wheelchair and walker accessories, chemo head coverings, ponchos, and more. All are designed for accessibility and comfort. The designs include different needs, such as easier access for medical devices, added comfort for mobility aids, and garments for recovery.
Rad Patterns CYOS Dress
Rad Patterns has a number of patterns for a wide range of adaptable sewing needs, and many designs come in extended sizes.
The CYOS (Choose Your Own Skater) Dress offers customization in sleeve and dress length, making it versatile for different body types and mobility needs. The pattern is designed for knit fabrics with stretch, which provides comfort and ease of movement. It comes in women’s sizes XXS to 5XL (bust 29 inches to 77 inches, waist 23.5 inches to 70 inches, hip 33.5 inches to 80 inches).
Rad Patterns Mokena Shirt
The Mokena Shirt is an accessible pattern designed for ease of wear and functionality. It features multiple front access points, above and below the chest or at the hip, for medical devices or breastfeeding. Those openings can have closures like snaps, zippers, or hook-and-loop fasteners. The reverse high-low hem is optimized for seated use, which provides back coverage without bunching. It also offers tunic or T-shirt lengths and various sleeve options. The design is offered in women’s sizes XXS to 4XL (bust 29 inches to 65 inches, waist 23.5 inches to 58 inches, hip 33.5 inches to 68 inches).
Rad Patterns Back to Business Raglan
The Back to Business Raglan is a versatile and accessible pattern designed with a center-back opening for those with limited mobility, allowing for easy dressing. It includes options for buttons, snaps, zippers, or hook-and-loop closures. Plus it offers front zipper entries for other needs, such as medical port access or breastfeeding. Available in tunic or T-shirt lengths with various sleeve styles, it enables customization while ensuring comfort and accessibility. The raglan shirt pattern comes in women’s sizes XXS to 4XL (bust 29 inches to 65 inches, waist 23.5 inches to 58 inches, hip 33.5 inches to 68 inches).
By Hand London Marie Shirt & Dress
The Marie Shirt & Dress from By Hand London is a versatile pattern that can be adapted. Its button-down design allows for easy dressing and undressing, which is particularly helpful for individuals with limited mobility or dexterity. The loose fit and customizable sleeve options also add comfort and flexibility, making it easier for individuals to move or sit for long periods.
It’s a multisized sewing pattern from B Cup US 2 to 20 (high bust 28 inches to 49 inches, full bust 30 inches to 51 inches, waist 23 inches to 44 inches, hip 33 inches to 54 inches) and D Cup US 12 to 30 (high bust 36 inches to 57.25 inches, full bust 40 inches to 61.25 inches, waist 35 inches to 56.25 inches, hip 42 inches to 63.75 inches).
Rad Patterns Clara Skirt
This skirt comes in three lengths and is ideal for fabric with at least 40 percent stretch across the grain. More importantly, it is designed with style and accessibility in mind.
RAD Patterns explains that the stretch knit skirt is not restrictive but fitted enough to prevent extra fabric from catching in a wheelchair. Plus, the skirt front opens fully, making it possible to get on and off while seated. The back, meanwhile, sits higher on the wearer for comfort and coverage. Side seams are placed forward, away from areas that could cause abrasion while seated. Pockets sit on the thigh area for easier access, also while seated. The pattern instructions include how to install snaps, zippers, or Velcro, depending on the wearer’s needs.
Three length options range from mini to midi; there are two rises: mid and high. The pattern comes in sizes XXS to 4X (waist 23 inches to 58 inches, hips 33 inches to 68 inches).
If you’ve made any of these, we’d love to see your work. Please consider submitting a Gallery post or tag us on Instagram with #memadethreads.
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