Tomasa Jimenez and Johanna Mramor have tested garment patterns for Threads for years. Their expert evaluations of mainstream and independent patterns have appeared in the magazine’s Pattern Review department. They join this episode of Sewing With Threads to reflect on their sewing experiences and offer helpful advice about testing patterns for yourself.
Both testers began sewing well before high school and have sewn many patterns from the Big 4 patternmakers—Butterick, McCall’s, Simplicity, and Vogue. In fact, Johanna says she learned to sew from Vogue designer patterns. She talks about a light bulb moment when using one of those patterns. It led her to more carefully study and follow pattern instructions.
The testers’ early sewing experiences, along with years of sewing and formal training helped them understand what goes into a good pattern. Among those are that patterns must provide thorough instructions, matching illustrations, and pattern pieces with correct and complete markings.
There is a difference between the large pattern companies and the independents, both testers say.
“The big 4 are excellent with their pattern markings,” Tomasa notes. “They always have the center-front seam, the apex is marked. But a lot of people complain about too much ease, and I think that is correct.”
The independent patternmakers, on the other hand, have some issues with missing information and markings, Tomasa says.
“Everybody makes mistakes,” she points out. “When you’re testing a pattern, you’re looking for those mistakes” and omissions by the patternmakers.
When testing a pattern , you’ll also want to choose the right fabric. Johanna explains how and what to select.
She also discusses how she’ll refer to a second pattern with similar features when the first pattern may be missing instructions or has recommended an unusual construction method.
Tomasa has consulted the Vogue Sewing Book on occasion when the given instructions are less than thorough. For inspiration, Tomasa recommends the Sew Over 50 Sewing Community on Instagram, founded by Judith @judithrosalind and Sandy @sunnydayz06.
Listen in as the testers also talk about well-designed and fitted garments and their favorite patternmakers. They even discuss how patterns have changed over the years—in excellent and in less than optimal ways.
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Could you give me the name of the pattern store in Italy, or something that was discussed in the blog. You said the patterns were fantastic, came in a cotton waxed pouch- sorry could not catch the name. Do you have a page where show notes etc can be found? Thank you
Hi Carolinekoleystoner,
I think you are referring to Johanna Mramor's favorite patternmaker. It is Marfy, an Italian brand (https://www.marfy.it/en/). She calls their patterns her "brain candy." Johanna also like The Sewing Workshop patterns. Tomasa prefers Burda Style magazine patterns (https://www.burdastyle.com/sewing-patterns.html).
- Jeannine Clegg, Threads managing editor, production