The origins of waistcoats date back hundreds of years, and the changing styles reflect social, political, economic, and technological changes over time. Examples from the 19th and 20th centuries have silhouettes that are readily adaptable to contemporary styles.

Instructions for sewing your own vest are detailed in “Waistcoat How-to” Threads #228, Winter 2024.

Ancient to Medieval Periods

The waistcoat journey begins during the time of the Roman Empire, when a sheet of wool or animal skin, with a hole cut out to fit the head through, was worn over a tunic to preserve warmth. This was a type of tabard. By the 13th century, the garment had become a closer fitting garment that varied in length, reflecting the status and position of the wearer. Modifications denoted class, religion, marital status, age, types of work, and wealth. These garments were known by different names, such as the surcoat, garde, super tunic, or garnache and surcoat.

The Early Modern Waistcoat

The invention of the “modern” waistcoat is accredited to Charles II of England. He preferred a plainer garment than was popular throughout the rest of Europe. The Restoration period saw a more pared-down doublet style, with a slimmer fit. It is thought that this style was inspired by fashion observed at the Persian court.

 

Victorian Examples

In the following centuries, the waistcoat made many transitions, with and without sleeves, and adapted to incorporate various popular pastimes like horse riding, cycling, and golf. The use of finer fabrics on the front of the waistcoat was favored by the affluent, when in town, but was changed for a sturdier version when at countryside properties.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20th Century Evolution

Edward VII is credited with introducing the style of leaving the bottom button of a casual waistcoat undone to accommodate his ever-expanding abdomen. This style soon became fashionable and continues to this day.

Following a decline in popularity before the World War I, by the start of  World War II, the knitted waistcoat was in circulation due to the difficulty of obtaining fabric.

 

By the 1960s, the waistcoat became less structured and was adorned with all manner of paraphernalia such as tassels, buttons, and badges. For the more traditional upper classes, the white-tie and black-tie ensemble for men continued with little variation from its inception in the 1800s.

Contemporary Style

Today, the waistcoat appears in many wardrobes, as an androgynous or gender-neutral garment made in many types of fabrics. It is worn as business attire for men and women alike, and as a style statement on the high street, or for relaxing at home. Last but not least, many a wedding would not be the same without a matching set of color-coordinated waistcoats for wedding party participants, nor formal daytime events without the dove gray waistcoat.