The waistcoat, or vest in North America, is my favorite garment for its style, practicality, warmth, and versatility. It requires less work than a coat or jacket and takes less time to sew together. The waistcoat also requires less fabric than other garments, so it is particularly helpful for using up fabric offcuts. It can be worn to a variety of occasions, from casual gatherings to celebrity events. Plus, it looks flattering on men and women. It’s an easy way to complete an outfit, and it lends itself to layering for four-season wear.

The waistcoat is resilient when compared to other historical garments: Knickerbockers and stomachers, for example, are never to be seen again, while the waistcoat still enjoys exposure on haute couture catwalks today. Its evolution is intriguing. From a rustic tabard to a beribboned jacket to functional and decorative versions, the waistcoat has served many purposes over the centuries. Today, it is a fashion classic that also lends itself to individual interpretation.

I’ll walk you through the steps of constructing a single-breasted garment with laid-on lapels (lapels that are confined to the garment’s front, and stop at the shoulder seams). Whatever your size, shape, or style, I encourage you to consider adding a waistcoat to your wardrobe.

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J. Francois-Campbell, a tailor and pattern cutter for theater and opera, authored The Waistcoat Workbook (Routledge, 2024). See more of her work at www.JFrancois-Campbell.com.