Wear-Everywhere Coat

DaughterJudyPatterns.com

Skill level

The pattern is best for an experienced sewer on most fabrics. A beginner might find it moderately challenging to sew, especially the collar construction and the lining insertion.

Size range and fitting

This coat comes in two size groupings, DD and JJ. Group DD is sized 0 (XS) to 20 (XXL) for busts 32 1/2 inches to 46 inches, waists 25 1/2 inches to 39 inches and hips 35 1/2 inches to 49 inches. Group JJ is sized 16 (1X) to 34 for busts 42 inches to 60 inches, waists 37 inches to 56 1/4 inches and hips 45 1/2 inches to 66 1/2 inches. There is substantial ease. You’ll find at least 10 inches of each at the chest and hip levels in all sizes. Carefully select the size, as sizing down may be necessary depending on the look you are after.   

Fabrics

To make the best of the considerable ease, select fabric carefully. Opt for a lightweight, soft, drapey fabric when sewing the belted version. For the non-belted view, use a midweight woven, such as cashmere wool, denim, velvet, or twill. Stiff fabrics underscore the full silhouette. Heavy fabrics are a challenge to sew. The inverted box pleat in the sleeve is a beautiful feature, but with a heavy fabric the sleeve opening is small.

Style and sewing details

This is a loose-fitting, lined, robe-style coat. It has unique, easy-to-sew design features such as the shawl-like insert around the neck, darted shoulders, and inverted box pleats at the sleeve hemline. Patch pockets, oversized buttons, and a self-fabric belt held in place with oversized belt loops on the side back complete the look.

• The design comes in two lengths, lower thigh and mid-calf. The longer view has a vent at center back for walking ease.
• The pattern instructions are excellent, detailed, and include helpful and accurate illustrations. Our tester found them to be the best set of instructions she has seen with indie patterns.
• Step 37, joining the sleeve and lining hems, is challenging but, when done correctly, creates a professional finish.
• Step 38 instructs you to machine-stitch together the inner and outer collar seam allowances. Due to the previous stitching in step 20, the seam allowances are not wide enough. It is best to hand-stitch them together.
• The coat hem is not tacked down. It relies on the lining to keep it in place. Depending on the fabric type, you may need to do additional tacking.
• The yardage listed is accurate. However, if using a patterned or fabric with a nap, be sure to study the pattern layout carefully before purchasing fabric. The suggested layout may not work well for directional fabrics and more will be needed.

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Pattern tested and sewn by Susan Berlam, Pawcatuck, Connecticut.

Fabric: reversible cotton-polyester bouclé, GorgeousFabrics.com.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Photo: Mike Yamin.