Shirt Variety

TheMakersAtelier.com

Skill level

Moderate sewing experience is helpful. Parts of the instructions are detailed and other parts left methods up to the maker. A beginner may need additional references.

Size range and fitting

This blouse is sized UK 4 to 22 for busts 28 inches to 46 inches and hips 31 inches to 49 inches. It is loose fitting, has 14 inches of ease across the bust, and no bust darts. The flat and gathered back styles are longer and meant to be worn tucked in; the pleated version is shorter and designed to hang loose.

Fabrics

For the pleated blouse, use a crisp fabric that holds a crease such as silk dupioni, linen, cotton, hemp, or blends of any of these. For the gathered back, opt for something drapey and lightweight in rayon, silk, or polyester. Shirting fabric is a classic choice for the flat back style. Make it in corduroy or wool to use as an overshirt. There are many options to sew this shirt in a variety of fabrics that stand out, from cut velvet to lace or chiffon.

Style and sewing details

These blouses are timeless, yet sport fresh elements. Traditional details include a two-piece shirt collar, a cut-on front button placket, full-length sleeves with button cuffs, self-lined back yoke, and three back options: flat, gathered, or pleated. 

• The sleeves have two placket options. One is finished with a continuous bias strip. The other has the traditional square-end sleeve placket.
• Before adding the collar stand, staystitch the neckline to prevent stretching.
• Instructions and illustrations are accurate. All notches and match points line up and there are enough to sew all seams correctly.
• The finished garment measurements are accurate.
• These blouses offer a multitude of wearable possibilities and are version and fabric dependent. The flat version in plaid or a funky print works for everyday outings, shopping, school, or game night.
• Seam allowances are 1.0 cm, or 3/8 inch, which cuts down on trimming.
• Our tester appreciated the unconventional method of assembling the collar and collar stand.

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Pattern tested and sewn by Johanna Mramor, Surrey, British Columbia.

Fabric: stretch cotton shirting, GorgeousFabrics.com.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Photo: Mike Yamin.