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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: Vogue 1981

Threads #228, Winter 2024

Sophisticated Dress

Simplicity.com

Skill level

Although this is a complicated design due to the shape of the pattern pieces, the sewing is not difficult when you choose the proper materials and follow each step carefully.

Size range and fitting

Sized Misses’ 6 to 24 for busts 30½ inches to 46 inches, waists 23 inches to 39 inches and hips 32½ inches to 48 inches. A close fit is necessary to hold the ruching details in place. Try on often as you sew because it will be impossible to alter later once complete.

Fabrics

Be sure to use all stretch fabrics for the dress, including the lining and interfacing. A heavy ponte is used here, which created some unwanted bulk in the seams and gathers. Our tester suggests a lightweight jersey, matte jersey, or lightweight stretch velvet. It is important to choose fabric that gathers without adding bulk.

Style and sewing details

This elegant, just-below-knee-length dress is a Badgley Mischka design. It has asymmetrical ruching and pleated details, wrap-style skirt, long sleeves, shoulder pads, back waist darts, and an invisible center-back zipper. Except for the sleeves, it is fully lined. In addition, the lining is interfaced, adding support to the dress. All hems are machine stitched.

  • The inner construction of this dress is unique and a pleasant surprise. The amount of detail is deceiving if only looking at the photo on the pattern envelope.
  • The lining plays an important role. Do not skip it, as it is necessary to hold the pleats and gathers in place.
  • The sewing instructions are detailed and show a QR code to basic sewing instructions, which are not specific for this garment.
  • Pattern pieces fit together perfectly; notches and match points are well marked.
  • Each pattern piece, when first used, is labeled with its corresponding number. As you progress through the construction steps, they are not subsequently numbered. If needed, refer to the previous steps to locate the number.
  • Due to the asymmetrical design, many pieces are only cut once, which means all patterns pieces must face up. The
    fusible side of the interfacing must be cut correctly.

Vogue 1981 Line Art


Pattern tested and sewn by Donna Sikyta, Blacklick, Ohio.

Fabric: rayon double knit, GorgeousFabrics.com.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Photo: Mike Yamin.

 

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