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What Makes a Pattern Good

A guide to evaluating and choosing wisely
Threads #228, Winter 2024

With the plethora of patterns available to sewists, there is a never-ending debate on what constitutes a “good” pattern. As an active sewist with experience in using Big 4 patterns as well as indie offerings, I’ve developed a perspective on the various elements that make a pattern good. By “pattern,” I mean the entire garment-making product you receive with a pattern purchase, including instructions and more. I’ll share some guidelines for evaluating a pattern. My preferences are based on features that are most likely to lead to a successful finished garment and a rewarding sewing experience. You may have different priorities, and, of course the best pattern, ultimately, is the one you are most motivated to make. 

Effective designs

Consumers must distinguish between a good pattern and effective design. A pattern may deliver the specified style, but the design’s quality makes the final garment more or less enjoyable to wear. Great garments show that the designer has considered functionality and the comfort of the general population. The quality of pattern drafting can vary, even for simple garments. The seamlines of a well-drafted pattern match—though a perfect fit should not be an expectation. Some fit adjustments are necessary for most sewists. A pattern that doesn’t fit your unique shape is not necessarily a bad pattern.

Thoughtful development

To assess a pattern, consider how the design was developed. Do the designer and patternmaker have experience designing successful garments of the type they are making patterns for? How many cycles of testing have been run? Is the pattern company churning out patterns in response to market research? For independent pattern companies, visit their website and social media accounts, and take note of feedback on sites like Threadloop.app or PatternReview.com. Do customers report that garments made with the patterns are…

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