Pattern and fabric designer, sewing teacher, and author Gretchen Hirsch shares her love of 1950s style in her sixth book, Gertie’s Charmed Sewing Studio (Abrams, 2024).

Gertie’s Start

The first section of this two-part hardcover book walks through her inspirations for creating sewing patterns under her Charm Patterns brand, some inner workings of her studio, and even her challenges with patternwork.

She explains how her pattern names, such as the popular Rita Blouse and Rose Dressing Gown, came about, plus why she calls her Night and Day Dress “the world’s most ambitious sewing pattern.”

And she pays homage to mid-century Hawaii-based fashion designer Alfred Shaheen. His creations propelled her to create her brand. Other designers and clothing labels played a role as well, including Lilli Ann and Rose Marie Reid, and the author offers some history of them as well.

Hirsch clearly wants the reader to feel like they’ve sat down in her studio to chat and learn, and she’s letting them in on a few secrets about herself. She details how she styles her hair to get that 1950s glam look, what type of corset she wears, and what reduced her to tears one day in a fabric store. The book is filled with beautiful images of the author in her close-fitting bodice designs.

The first section also explains several key techniques for what is to follow: how to sew darts and princess seams, make foam cup bras, and use spiral steel boning.

Three Patterns for You

Part Two provides pattern instructions for three downloadable patterns: the Madeleine Dress, Camille Sheath, and Lillian Jacket. The downloadable patterns are a departure from the paper patterns Hirsch included in her previous books. These patterns are available in two size ranges, 2 to 20 and 18 to 34, with A to H cup sizes.

A helpful glossary follows Part Two. There is no index in the book.

Several distracting production issues could have been avoided: three skirt illustrations on pp. 32–33 are misidentified; the small, light-colored illustrations in the steel boning instructions, p. 39, are difficult to see clearly; and the text on p. 63 repeats what was on the previous page. However, page references throughout are accurate.

Hirsch’s chatty style, the many historical and present-day images of designs, and even Hirsch’s design illustrations make this a pleasant read. Plus, the patterns are enticing for vintage lovers to try out. Note: Threads has not yet evaluated the patterns and instructions.

Earlier Work

Hirsch’s other books, all published by Abrams or an imprint of the company:

Gertie Sews Jiffy Dresses (2019)

Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book (2016)

Gertie’s New Fashion Sketchbook (2015)

Gertie Sews Vintage Casual (2014)

Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing (2012)