Your choice of construction and finishing details can give your next custom-made shirtdress a professional look while adding comfort.

See “Choose a Shirtdress Design for Your Style,” Threads #229, Spring 2025, for some construction details. Below are images of more shirtdresses, plus additional techniques I included on the denim shirtdress featured in the article.

Pattern and fabric selection will help determine what finishes are appropriate for your shirtdress. See some pattern options at the bottom of this article.

Alter the Design

You can modify shirtdress patterns to create looks that vary from casual to formal. For this versatile brown linen shirtdress, New Look 6449, the sleeves were shortened to elbow length and fisheye darts added on each side of the back pleat below the yoke, for more shaping. Chosen finishes included lightweight cotton batik lining for the yoke and side seam pockets, and serge-finished seams.

My plaid shirtdress with self-belt includes a back yoke and long-sleeve tower plackets cut on the bias. The dress was modified in back. I extended the back fold about 4 inches to form an inverted pleat in the back bodice that extends down to the inverted hemline pleat. The pleat is visible from the yoke to the waist and then hidden behind the seam from the waist to 7-1/4 inches above the hemline, before it opens up as a kick pleat.

 

More Construction and Finishing Techniques

Mark Precisely

Careful layout and marking pays off when sewing the dress. Tailor’s tacks are accurate for marking and easy to remove after construction.

Use an iron

Be sure to press your work during the construction to achieve smoother results. For example, press the stitched bust darts downward. Slide an opened paper bag or craft paper…