Spring always offers the chance of a fresh start, a time to learn something new, embark on a journey, metaphorically or actually, or rejuvenate beloved things. In the spirit of these aspirational goals and tasks, I talked to the founders, creators, and teachers at some of the sewing and crafts-related schools in New York City. I chose those operating in the Big Apple because that is where I live, but there are countless others across the country, and likely one near you. Spring is an excellent time to take a class, whether to develop a new skill or take your knowledge to the next level. Or perhaps there is someone in your life who wants to learn to sew. What better time than spring for them to begin—and for you to encourage them to dive in?

Find your inspiration

I spoke with several professionals about what they see trending for spring and summer 2025 and what their students are most interested in creating. I think trends begin on the proverbial streets; that the styles and fashions that become truly popular are those driven by “normal” people living their lives and striving to express themselves in genuine ways—not by the large fashion houses. As Plato’s theory of mimesis explains: Art imitates life.

Carolyn Heitmann, owner and curator at Brooklyn Craft Company, says her favorite small brand is Big Bud Press (BigBudPress.com). All their designs are unisex, ethically and sustainably manufactured, and made to last. On top of all that, they’re just really fun. Think not-so-basic basics. “They are extremely thoughtful about both quality and fit,” says Heitmann, “and accommodate body diversity in a way that you don’t see from many other brands, even most small brands.”

“We here at Made are big fans of Iris Van Herpen,” says Rosemary Schwartz, admissions coordinator at Made Institute (Made-Institute.com). “She has such an innovative approach to fashion, merging technology with traditional craftsmanship to create truly unique pieces.” Her intricate designs often draw inspiration from nature and science, resulting in sculptural garments that blur the line between art and wearable fashion. Additionally, her commitment to sustainability and exploration of new materials resonates with a growing audience that values eco-conscious creativity. Schwartz calls her simply iconic.

Prioritize quality

No matter what you decide to make or learn this spring, remember that pieces with impeccable fit and exceptional construction always stand the test of time. “Prioritizing craftsmanship is crucial,” says Schwartz, “it’s easy to spot items that are merely trendy but poorly made.” She notes that investing in well-fitting essentials is always worthwhile, especially when you’re able to create them yourself. Not only do you end up with a quality-made garment, but you also have something no one else does that you made with your own two hands. That is a special kind of joy all of us makers aspire to.

Explore Contrasts

Don’t be shy about introducing opposites within an outfit: Contrast is one of the driving trends of the upcoming season.

Fabrics

“Expect to see a rich array of textures this season, from feathers and fringe to everything in between,” says Schwartz from Made Institute. All kinds of sheer fabrics, including knitted nets, chiffons, lace weaves, and crochet, showed up on the runways. Many of them had a shimmering effect, pearlescent or translucent. Other fabrics include linen and cotton blends; “faux solids,” meaning monochromatic textiles with texture, speckles, slubs with visible weaving. Plus, there are lots of florals—it is spring, after all. Textiles with smocking, pleats, and waffling were also popular in the runway shows; anything that added texture and created surface interest. Mix these with smoother fabrics, prints, patterns, or with each other to find your preferred level of contrast.

Colors

The palette for spring/summer 2025 includes pastels like crocus, lime cream, and limpet shell (a light blue) as well as brighter shades like orangeade, misted marigold, white grapes (a warm light green),  and déjà vu blue. Neutral seasonal hues range from antique white to nearly black eclipse, with a grayish moonbeam and slate blue (granite) colors in between. A mid-brown and dark red-brown add an earth-toned option.

If you’re hesitant to go full-on with the bright tones, try them as accents with neutrals to brighten your dressing as the days warm up. “The combination of soft hues, like butter yellow and baby pink, alongside bold colors, such as vibrant reds, creates striking visual contrasts,” says Schwartz.

Unconventional Hemlines

Unconventional skirt and hem silhouettes were a recurring theme in runway shows, and I mean unconventional in all the ways you can think of: short in front with trains in back, bubble hems, wired hems, and even tutus. Schwartz says that detailed hemlines adorned with embroidery and shimmering accents add sophistication to any garment. Many domestic sewing machines come with an assortment of preprogrammed decorative stitches that can be the perfect accent to a hem, especially when sewn with a contrasting thread color or multiple thread colors. “This elegant playfulness reflects a collective desire to embrace more classic styles,” Schwartz says. Pair your unconventional bottom with a simple T-shirt for yet another balance of contrasts.

Patterns to try

✚ Aino Bubble Dress from RidhGoyalPatterns: sleeveless dress with full skirt gathered to create a bubble effect

✚ Annie Rock from Stokx Patterns: easy-to-sew high-low skirt with generous pockets

✚Ayla Woven Skirt from Style Arc: lantern-shaped, pull-on skirt

✚ Butterfly Bias Cut Dress from Copper Creek Patterns: elasticized waistline, flutter sleeves, full high-low skirt for drapey wovens

✚ Core T-shirt from Closet Core Patterns: basic, slightly boxy tee, a free pattern

Delma Skirt from VikiSews: midi-length, high-low, bubble-hem skirt

Le 933 Handkerchief Dress from DP Studio: knit turtleneck bodice with woven skirt with pointed hem

✚ Magical Twirl Dress from Ellie and Mac: mix-and-match pattern with high-low circle skirt options

McCall’s 7615: full, ballerina-inspired tulle skirts in three lengths

✚ McCall’s 8483: cropped peasant blouse with tiered, asymmetrical-hem skirt

Ruffled High-Low Skirt from You Make Patterns: full knit skirt with length options

Simplicity 8579: 18th-century panniers, to extend the hip shape; for the more creative dresser

✚ Sydney Designer Dress and Extension pack from Style Arc: pullover shift dress with lantern silhouette; bundle includes neckline and sleeve variations

Thyme Skirt from Pattern Apothecary: beginner-friendly pull-on skirt with asymmetrical hem variations

Tosca Dress from The Sewing Workshop: sleeveless dress with bubble hem, cowl neckline

✚ Tulpe Coat from OkiStyle: coat with fitted bodice and unique, tulip-shaped skirt; available in larger sizes on request

Vogue 9252: Sleeveless fit-and-flare dress with graceful skirt sweep and high-low hem

Sport-Luxe & Oversized Silhouettes

These trends are all about unlikely pairings and generous proportions. Think bike shorts and track jackets with something like a sequin dress. Or a pair of loose-fitting joggers with a minidress and feathers-and-fringe-embellished cropped jacket. Or a rugby shirt with a sleek pencil skirt, Dr. Martens (shoes), and a silk scarf.

Kristine Frailing, fashion designer, sewing instructor, and founder and creative director at the New York Sewing Center, says it’s not uncommon for certain trends to stick around for a couple seasons. Wide-leg pants persist, as do oversized silhouettes in general, including baggy blazers. She also loves loose-fitting joggers, which are beginner-friendly. Consider tailoring the leg ever so slightly or transforming it into a huge wide leg. “They’re just such an easy project that can look so elevated on so many different body shapes,” she says.

Patterns to try

✚ Anything But Basic Women’s Tee from Copper Creek Patterns: set-in sleeves, neckline and sleeve-length options in a free, downloadable pattern

Aster Tee from Pattern Apothecary: raglan-sleeved T-shirt

✚ The Basic Sweatpants from Juliana Martejevs: with elastic waistband and ribbed cuffs. Available in made-to-measure size

✚ Bert Knit Top and Ernie Knit Pant from Style Arc: Classic sweatpants with oversized polo-style sweatshirt

✚ Betty and Bob Bundle from Style Arc: Woven tunic and balloon-shaped pants

✚ Bike shorts from Sew Anastasia: Beginner-friendly, downloadable pattern

Boyfriend Jacket plus shell from CJ Patterns: shawl-collar jacket for knits or wovens

✚ Elliot Sweater and Tee from Helen’s Closet Patterns: easy-fitting raglan tops

Faythe Pants from VikiSews: straight pants with elastic waistband and hems, intended for nonstretch fabrics

✚ Frida Skirt and Sally Sweater from Juliana Martejevs: classic midi-length jeans skirt and raglan-sleeve sweatshirt, available in custom sizes.

Le 308 High-waisted Trousers from DP Studio: Hollywood-waist trousers with side ties, wide legs

✚ The Olivia Coat from Juliana Martejevs: chore-style jacket in two lengths; available in custom sizing

✚ Plus CJP Wide Leg Pants from CJ Patterns: pull-on style for drapey knits or wovens

Rumi Pants from VikiSews: loose-fitting pants with drawstring waist, slash and patch pockets

Simplicity 8697: oversized blazer with collar variations

✚ ZW Block Pants from Brigitta Helmersson Zero Waste Patterns: cropped, wide-leg pants with elastic waist

ZW Workwear Jacket from Brigitta Helmersson Zero Waste Patterns: boxy, unisex chore jacket

Skants, Skorts, & Creative Combinations

Dresses and skirts over pants and shorts constitute a trend that goes hand in hand with unconventional hemlines found in many of this season’s runway shows. I feel happily validated with this trend as I’ve been wearing dresses over pants since my teenage years, when it definitely wasn’t trendy. My look was always considered “weird” by my peers. I still dress in this manner: It’s practical and offers opportunities for unique styling. Complement skorts and skants (skirt-pants) with cropped blouses.

Patterns to try

1910s Split Cycling Skirt from Reconstructing History Patterns: long, full, pleated, culotte-style skirt

✚ Ashley Skort from 5 out of 4: high-low wrap skirt, four lengths, over shorts

Belize shorts and skort from Itch to Stitch: shorts with skirtlike overlay options

✚ Bernadette Skirt from + Friday Pattern Co.:  pleated skirt, mini or midi; layer the short version over pants

Clara Wrap Top from Green Style: surplice bodice with wrapped midriff

✚ Eddy Pants from Green Style: knit split-leg pants with undershorts

Flare Maxi Dress from Pattern Couture: tent dress with ruffle neckline and hem details

Halter top and Copenhagen skirt from Puff and Pencil: low-waisted wrap skirt, ideal to layer over pants; halter top with fitted midriff

✚ Know Me 2013: knit sleeveless or short-sleeve cropped tops, straight skirt with side-front slit

✚ Lauren Trousers from Lore Piar:  classic trouser with an easy front welt pocket; hack to wider or narrow leg

Meg Dress and Pants from Sew Tina Givens: sleeveless tunic with asymmetrical hem, cropped pants

Pant Billy from OkiStyle: tapered trouser with flounce along front waist and upper side seam.

✚ Romey Gathered Dress and Top from Sew House 7:  empire-waist dress with gathered skirt; can be shortened for a top

Rowen Dress from Pattern Apothecary: dress with elastic waistline, tie front opening, in mini and midi lengths

✚ Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern Co.:  pullover cropped top can be worn with low V-neck in front or back; paired with wide-leg, pull-on pants.

✚ Saturday Skirt Set from Friday Pattern Co.: cropped blouse with front tie with full A-line skirt

Simplicity 1370: shorts, skorts, and skirts with various hem shapes.

Simplicity 9114: cami and trousers, with tiered shirtdress to wear as a duster

✚ Tie Dress from Sewing Therapy: pullover dress with ties for multiple styling options

Top Madrid from OkiStyle:  sleeveless blouse with peplum

Vogue 1702: wide-leg pants with long skirt overlay, for a dressy, couture look

Vogue 9278: flared slip dress with narrow straps

✚ Wickham Shorts/Skort from Cashmerette Club:  shorts, skirt, or skort

Layered Sheers

Boudoir lace and layered sheers combine with a touch of boho chic, crochet details, and capes. Most any garment can embrace this trend if you construct it in a sheer fabric. Look for materials that have some texture, and don’t be afraid to layer different fabrics. Back in my teenage days, I layered multiple sheer slips and dresses. I love that this is now a fashion trend. Think about using a sheer floral under a lace with a gauze solid over both. Play around with different hem lengths and proportions to create a unique look.

Patterns to try

Carmencita Maxi Dress from PatternCosPatterns: above-the-knee raglan dress with full sleeves and generous swing silhouette

Culottes Jumpsuit from Ambitious Elle Patterns:
full-leg jumpsuit with sheer
leg panel

Eleonora Dress from Silver Sage Patterns: peasant-style dress with short sleeves and elastic waistline

✚ Josephine Dress and Top from Caramiya Maui: baby-doll silhouette tiered dress

Kara Cape Dress from Pattern Couture: close-fitting minidress with open back and cape-like sleeves

✚ Kingsley Bias Cut Dress and Cami from Style Arc: V-neck slip dress with unusual dart configuration

Know Me 2026: knit tank dress paired with sheer shirtdress

✚ Know Me 2072: maxi dress with low neckline in front and back and ruffled hem; try in eyelet lace

Lace Cover-up from Ambitious Elle Patterns: tie-front duster coat, ideal for lace fabric

Lace Duster from Pattern Couture: heirloom-detailed tie-front long duster

✚ Nansu Dress from Lore Piar: voluminous dress with sleeve, length, and ruffle options

✚ Nullabor Cami and Dress from Muna and Broad: straight- or bias-grain slip dress

Sheer lace camisole from Transformations by Tracy: cami with sheer midriff panel

Sheer Maxi Dress from Ambitious Elle Patterns: sleeveless, long A-line dress

✚ Simone Slip Dress and Camisole from Closet Core Patterns: classic bias-cut slip

Vogue 2071: loose jacket with shaped hem and tie front, by Júlio César

✚ Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Company: raglan-sleeve dress/top with gathered neckline and several tier options

Shirtdresses & Masculine-Inspired Looks

A tailored shirtdress or button-up oxford never goes out of style. This spring, both are all about the stripes. Consider wearing a shirtdress with a pair of pants incorporating the skirt-over-pants trend. On the runways, this trend sported a multitude of stripes within a single outfit: for example, a wide-striped tunic over pinstriped linen pants. The trouser-plus-waistcoat look continues, with proportions abbreviated or exaggerated to suit the wearer’s taste. If you’re a beginner and looking for a simple tunic pattern,Heitmann suggests the Stevie Dress from Tilly and the Buttons. Construct this in a cotton stripe or a linen-cotton blend. “Tilly’s instructions are very thorough and include photos, so I know that if a student decides to make another dress after class, they’ll be able to jog their memory of the workshop and follow the pattern with ease,” Heitman says.

Patterns to try

Amarena Dress from Liesl and Co.: pullover, V-neck shift dress with collar and pocket variations

✚ Anais Woven Dress from Style Arc: raglan-sleeve button-front dress with shirttail hem

Cropped Waistcoat and Flared Pants from Pattern Couture: short vest with low V-neck, and close-fitting bell-bottom pants

✚ The Dress Bundle from Juliana Martejevs: includes six styles, such as a slip dress, A-line princess seam design, and a straight-cut shirtdress

✚ Freja Vest and Tatjana Trousers from Just Patterns: low-hip-length contoured vest and classic trousers

Know Me 2031: sleeveless or short-sleeve shirtdress with multigored skirt

✚ Lenox Shirtdress from Cashmerette: short-sleeve dress with princess seams; A-line or gathered skirt

✚ McCall’s 8385: raglan-sleeve dress with princess seams; gathered side panel option

Simplicity 8014: shirtdress variations, with or without waist seam

✚ Stevie Tunic from Tilly and the Buttons: straight top or dress with cut-on sleeves

✚ Summer Birdy Dress from Stokx Patterns: princess-line, button-front dress with flutter sleeves

Vanessa Nirode is a tailor for television and film, who also specializes in fashion reporting. WeatherYourOwnStorm.com

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