Dolman-style coats and jackets represent timeless fashion. They offer a comfortable fit for layering over other garments, and provide a minimalist vibe with their simplified cut. Even better, they are easy to sew. There’s no struggle to perfect the armhole size and shape and no problem with easing in a set-in sleeve. If you’re new to sewing outwear, a dolman sleeve is a great place to start.

In Threads #228 and #229 (Winter 2024 and Spring 2025), Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King explains a pattern change to make a dolman-sleeve swing coat with a swagger collar. Before trying this yourself, you’ll want to assess your dolman-sleeve pattern to see if it is likely to fit well. If it has the drafting flaw described below, you can alter it quickly and effectively.

In this video, Professor King demonstrates how to check your pattern and, if needed, how to fix it.

Check the High Shoulder Height

Many dolman-sleeve patterns are not drafted for optimal fit. If the front and back patterns are the same length at the high shoulder points, the garment will shift backwards when worn. You can check this on your pattern by laying the back pattern on top of the front pattern, aligning the hemlines and underarm curves. The high shoulder point is at the intersection of the neckline curve and the overarm seamline. If the front and back high shoulder points meet, you’ll have a jacket that looks good lying flat on a table. However, it won’t hug the back of your neck when you wear it.

Adjust the Back Pattern

The key to improving the fit is to raise the back high shoulder point. Professor King shows how to add length to the center-back line.  This fix also raises the high shoulder point and angles the…