Pockets—most of us can’t cope without them. They come in many variations, and often form an important part of a garment’s overall design. However, some garments have an uncluttered style. In those cases, in-seam pockets are functional without being a distraction.

When I’m adding an in-seam pocket in a garment made from sheer or delicate fabric, I like to use French seams. They’re strong and encase the cut edges, which is especially good for translucent fabrics, where the seam finish can show through to the garment’s right side. Incorporating an in-seam pocket into a French seam isn’t immediately straightforward, but it can be done. I’ll show you how. For those of you who appreciate a beautiful garment interior, this technique is worth trying.

I developed my method for French seam pockets when I was making Vogue 1561, a now-discontinued Zandra Rhodes jacket design. I was aware that the added pockets might distort the side seam of this flowing design. My solution was to design a pocket with a squared-off top, with its upper corner anchored to the jacket’s yoke by a length of ribbon. Even with my phone inside it, the pocket didn’t sag. Evaluate the pockets in your pattern to see if you could improve them with some reshaping, resizing, or a similar anchor.

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Di Kendall has an extensive background in dressmaking, pattern cutting, and tailoring. Find inspiration from her @sewitwithdi.