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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: Helens Closet, Lockhart Jumpsuit and Dress

Threads #229, Spring 2025

Casual Jumpsuit

(HelensCloset.ca)

Skill level

Straightforward to sew, this pattern is a nice undertaking for a comfortable beginner.

Size range and fitting

The jumpsuit and dress are drafted for a 5-foot 6-inch person and come in two size ranges: sizes 0 thru 22 for B-cup busts 31 inches to 48 inches, waists 24 inches to 40 inches and hips 33 inches to 50 inches; and 12 thru 34 for D-cup busts 40 inches to 62 inches, waists 30 inches to 52 inches and hips 40 inches to 62 inches. The top is semifitted, but there’s plenty of ease from the waist to hem.

Fabrics

Pick light- to medium-weight woven fabrics with no stretch, such as linen, chambray, light- to medium-weight denim, poplin, cotton, or cotton blend.

Style and sewing details

Choose from a dress or jumpsuit in four lengths, ranging from mini/shorts to knee, midi, and full length.

• Select narrow or wide straps.

• The lined and fitted princess-seam bodice hugs the body and flows into an A-line skirt or wide-leg pants. Both unlined bottoms have in-seam pockets anchored to the waist seam.

• Front and back waist darts provide shaping. An invisible zipper closes at the center back.

• The instructions are accurate, with tips and fitting checkpoints sprinkled throughout. Especially helpful are the added notes and suggestions that explain why the steps are needed.

• The instructions for inserting the zipper while aligning the waist seams are precise and spot on.

• Before sewing the pocket, apply seam tape or a strip of interfacing to the seam allowance along the pocket opening to prevent stretching when sewing and wearing the finished garment.

Discuss

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