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Sew a Pleated Chiffon Skirt

Join delicate fabric strips to create a light-as-air design
Threads #229, Spring 2025

Designing patterns is a passion of mine, and I enjoy working out the intricacies of fit and construction. Sometimes, though, I crave a quick, less detailed project. One of my favorites is this strip-pieced, no-pattern skirt. For instant sewing gratification and a speedy fashion boost, you’ll find it fits the bill perfectly.

The skirt is made of four to six lightweight, drapey fabrics cut into strips and pieced into a new fabric. This pieced fabric is casually pleated and fused to an internal yoke made of iron-on inter­facing. Free-motion-quilting further secures the pleats to the yoke. The only fitting involved is in the yoke, which is simply a ring darted to your body size.

Choose a finished or unfinished version

Textiles such as chiffon, georgette, voile, lawn, and charmeuse are ideal for this design. I like to work with several coordinating prints and/or solids. It’s important to test how the fabrics behave when sewn together, as the look depends on a certain amount of flow. Avoid stiff materials like organza and crisp cottons and linens.

You can assemble the skirt in several ways, for different effects. I’ve made skirts that are deliberately unfinished, with softly fraying seams, hems, and waistlines. If you prefer a more polished style, you can add a waistband, or bind or face the waistline, and hem the skirt conventionally.   

Because the skirt’s look changes dramatically depending on the fabrics and finishes you use, I think you’ll find this style more versatile than you might guess. Give it a try and see how you can make it work for you.


Adapted from “Design a Chic, Flowing Skirt with Fabric Strips,” by Jennifer Stern-Hasemann, Threads #120, Aug./Sept. 2005.

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