Mid-century jackets often had details and silhouettes that still appeal to us today. A case in point is this swing coat, with a wide lapel that folds back to form pockets near the hem. In Threads #228, Winter 2024, I demonstrated how to draft this swing coat collar on a plain coat pattern. Here, I’ll show you how to sew the lapel.

Although it looks like the lapel area below the oversized “notch” is simply folded back and secured in place with a button, I’ve come up with a better way to form the pocket. My approach eliminates much of the bulk near the lower front corner. Given that the original jacket and my sample are made from heavy coating fabrics, reducing the number of thick layers yields a sharper finish.

If you have a tried-and-true jacket pattern, you can enhance it with this collar and pocket detail. It’s as interesting to make as it is to wear. 

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Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King is the author of several books, including the 2023 bestseller Doll Couture (The Taunton Press, an imprint of Abrams Books, 2023).