I’ve been planning to make myself an oversized trench coat/macintosh (mac) for ages, so I’m happy to finally tackle this project. In this series, I’ll take you through how I’m making a classic mac with a couple of twists. The dream trench coat series includes: choosing a pattern and fabric, adding details, and lining the coat with the help of a useful technique. For this first installment, I cover the planning stages.

 

The Pattern

My search was on for a jacket pattern that has an oversized fit, a classic collar that buttons all the way up, and includes some unique details. I ultimately landed on the Thompson Coat by Daughter Judy Patterns, which blends classic and modern styles. I’m a big lover of interesting sleeves, and I immediately fell for the design’s three-piece sleeves with wrist darts that create a cocoon-like shape. Their raglan design and oversized fit are perfect for the silhouette I’m hoping to achieve, and the in-seam welt pockets radiate the classic-with-a-twist energy I was going for.

The pattern comes with two length options; I went with view B, the longer version. I chose the size based on my chest/upper bust measurement, which put me at about a Size 2. Although the pattern is drafted for a 5-foot 6-inch person, and I’m 5-foot 4-inches, I decided to keep the length because of my preference for extralong outerwear.

Although nearly a perfect fit, the pattern was lacking a few features I wanted, so I made several modifications.

Storm flap at the back

The look and function of a storm flap on trench coats really appeal to me, so I added one to this pattern. This is the method I followed and you also may want to try it…