Skirts, dresses, jackets, and coats are often lined, and a special treatment of the lining along the hemline gives extra movement and comfort when the wearer sits or bends their arm. A jump pleat—sometimes called an ease pleat—is a small fold in the lining fabric at the hemline or base of a sleeve. It unfolds when the wearer sits down or bends their arm, giving more length to accommodate the body’s bend. Then it falls back into place when the wearer stands up or straightens their arm. Without this extra ease, a lining can feel tight.

There are instances when a lining goes to the edge of a garment or attaches to a facing. But that’s not how we generally treat a lining at the base of sleeves or at a garment’s hemline. 

While I’ll show this technique on a straight skirt, the same steps apply when attaching the lining of a jacket, dress, or coat. The placement of the lining’s fold along the hem allowance and the depth of the pleat return can vary from a little to a lot, but the method is the same. The lining’s fold is recessed from the fashion fabric’s edge. The actual stitching is recessed even further, and a pleat is formed. You’ll want to be sure to fashion a pleat that doesn’t droop below the garment’s hemline. It’s a clever bit of engineering. It adds comfort and ease of movement while covering the stitches that secure the lining to the hem allowance.

Creating a jump, or ease, pleat takes a little time, but it improves a garment’s wear. If your pattern’s instructions don’t tell you to add one, follow these steps to do so. You’ll be glad you did.