Koos van den Akker, a renowned Dutch-born American designer, is most familiar as the creator of artistic quilted coats of many colors. Though classically trained in Europe as a fashion designer, Koos developed his innovative aesthetic, and the techniques needed  to realize it, when he moved to New York in the late 1960s.

Richly colored, multi-patterned jackets were the hallmark of his output. Thus this charming summer dress, made in 1977, is a pleasant surprise. The skirt is backed with white linen, and the appliqués include printed cotton, some quilted and some with a matelassé texture. Unexpectedly, there’s also a patch of cream-colored hand-knit fabric. The effect is lighthearted and effortless.

Defining the edges of the circle-based motifs are striped bias strips. Learn how to apply these for your own version of a summer Koos garment. See Rediscover Designer Koos van der Akker’s bias strip technique.

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