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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: Designer Stitch, Estelle Trousers 1124

Threads #230, Summer 2025

Relaxed Trousers

DesignerStitch.com

Skill level

The sewing is straightforward, with the back welt pockets being the only potentially tricky part.

Size range and fitting

The pattern is sized 1 thru 13, fitting AU/UK 6 thru 30, US 2 thru 26, and EU 34 thru 58. It is for waists 23-1/2 inches to 47-1/2 inches and hips 34 inches to 58 inches. The design is based on a 5-foot 6-inch-tall person. These wide-leg, relaxed-fit pants are designed to sit at the natural waist.

Fabrics

Linen, linen blends, and cotton are suitable options. Wool flannel and corduroy are warm choices for colder climates. Generally, opt for any woven bottom-weight fabric as long as it is not too heavy. If choosing heavy fabric, simply omit the back welt pockets.

Style and sewing details

The waistband has a flat front and is elasticized in the back for comfort. Other features include a fly-front zipper, slanted side pockets, and back welt pockets (real or faux).

• The instructions offer extensive coverage on fitting the pants, which are accurate and helpful. With eight full pages dedicated to the subject, they read like a mini textbook.

• On size US 10, the front waist measurement is 16 inches, and the back is 24 inches, when the elastic is stretched. The stretch provides ample room for waist adjustments.

• On size US 10 and up, the marked pocket match points on the angled seam are shifted progressively outward, culminating with size 26 positioned outside the pattern’s cutting area. As a result, for these sizes, the respective match points will not align with
the pocket bag.

• While most seam allowances are ¼ inch, add more for ravel-prone fabrics. Mark the match points rather than clipping them.

• You have the option of creating functional or faux back welt pockets. Interface the pocket area for both. The narrow welt is challenging to work with. Try making the pocket frame slightly wider and cut the welt strips ½ inch wider.

• Faux welt pockets are a good choice for a less bulky back.

• When attaching the zipper to the shield in step 16, our tester offset the zipper by 1/4 inch instead of the recommended 3/8 inch so that at a later step, the left waistband fit properly.

• The waistband barely fits the recommended 1-1/4-inch-wide elastic without the topstitching. Use 1-inch-wide elastic or widen the waistband.

• Step 24 indicates attaching the elastic to the waistband before it’s attached to the pants. However, it may be easier to sew the waistband to the pants first, then insert the elastic through a small opening left in the waistband’s short seams.


Pattern tested and sewn by Eve Kovacs.

Fabric: linen/cotton jacquard, StylemakerFabrics.com.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Photos: Jack Deutsch.

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