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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: Pauline Alice, Neu Skirt

Threads #230, Summer 2025

Cargo-Pocket Skirt

PaulineAlice.com

Skill level

Novice sewers can easily tackle this with some guidance. Adding the pattern piece numbers to the illustrations and instructions will further assist.

Size range and fitting

Sized 34 thru 52 for waists 24-1/2 inches to 40 inches and hips 34 inches to 49-1/2 inches. With 29 inches of hip ease on size 38, it is a voluminous garment.

Fabrics

Because of the skirt’s generous volume and gathers, a lightweight fabric is recommended. Lightweight interfacing in the pocket areas will provide structure. A crisp fabric like poplin is ideal. Viscose, nylon, technical fabrics, and gabardine are other choices. Depending on your desired aesthetic, a medium-weight fabric works well. However, it may cause the skirt to stand away from the body.

Style and sewing details

This is an A-line, above-ankle-length skirt with a partially gathered waistband. It fits a variety of body types comfortably. The waistline is adjustable, as it has a front drawstring with cord locks, plus elastic at the back. The design’s  eye-catching qualities are due to the unique waistline treatment and oversized cargo-style bellows pockets with flaps.

• The side panels are constructed in two sections: an upper panel and a lower panel that is gathered into the upper section.

• The faced waistband incorporates casings for the drawstring, which runs along the center-front panel, and for the elastic, along the center-back panel. This construction keeps the side panels’ waistline flat and free of bulk.

• Finished garments measurements are included. The sewing instructions and illustrations are clear and easy to follow. Notches, match points, and seams align.

• Note to imperial users: There is a conversion error on the elastic width. Use 3/4-inch (2.0 cm) instead of the stated 1¼-inch width. The pattern markings confirm this.

• On the website, there is a link to a helpful video tutorial (French with English subtitles) demonstrating the bellows pockets.

• The bellows pockets, though not difficult, require careful sewing. To ensure accurate, sharp corners, first chalk-mark the sewing line. Then use a short stitch length and pivot at the corners for precise stitching.

• Tack down the bellows pockets at the top corners so they don’t spread open while wearing the skirt.

• Options for the drawstring could be a simple ribbon or cord. Instructions recommend hiding the knot within the casing. Depending on the knot type, you may not be able to do this. If you can’t, simply leave it on one side and adjust it from the opposite side.


Pattern tested and sewn by Tomasa Jimenez, Lyndhurst, New Jersey.

Fabric: tencel twill, SawyerBrook.com.

Illustrations: Steven Fleck.

Photos: Jack Deutsch.

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