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Sewing Fake Fur: Pocket Construction in Fake Fur

Video: Threads magazine

In this episode, Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King explains how to create a slash pocket in a fake fur jacket. The pocket is the most difficult part of the jacket, Kenneth says. He recommends that if you want to simplify the jacket, simply leave the pockets out.

Kenneth begins with an overview of the preparation steps necessary for sewing this pocket, including marking and applying cold tape.

Plan and prepare the opening

Learn about planning the ideal pocket opening placement and size and the size of the pocket bag. These decisions enable you to create your own pocket pattern pieces in the best size for you.

After staying the pocket opening ends, you must part the fur’s pile to keep from catching the fur in the pocket opening. Then baste the pile down to keep it out of the way as you construct the opening.

Stabilize the opening by hand-sewing a length of grosgrain ribbon along the opening marking, on the fur’s wrong side. Machine-sew along the middle of the ribbon to secure it.

Attach the pocket bags

Begin by pinning one side of the pocket bag to the garment, with right sides together. Kenneth shares a tip for ensuring that you position and sew each pocket bag piece in the right direction. Then attach the second pocket bag piece to the garment. Turn the garment right side up and check your work: There should be visible fur between the pocket bag seams.

Complete the pocket

Working from the garment’s wrong side, cut along the middle stitching row on the grosgrain ribbon. Be careful not to cut the pocket bag seam allowances on the right side. Clip into the corners at each pocket end. Clip the seam allowances on one bag piece.

Turn both bag pieces…

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About This Video Series

In this 16-part video series, Professor Kenneth D. King leads you through the creation of a luxurious fake fur jacket—perfect to take you through a northern winter in style. New videos will be released every Tuesday and Thursday. Prep steps: Kenneth D. King, an adjunct instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, teaches you all the techniques you'll need to work effectively with any sort of synthetic fur. You'll learn about the…

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