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Conversational Threads

2 much back leg fabric visible frm frnt

fearyenot | Posted in Fitting on

Hi again:

I’ve made a duct tape hip form and have transferred the form using a pattern I like for the shape of the pant legs.  Currently there are no ‘smiles’ at the front and back crotch area.  I know that’s good!  Here’s what I’m finding now as well as seeing it on store bought pants especially jeans.  Before I describe the area, I’m wide across the hips and flat across the seat.  I also have saddle bags.   Anyways, looking at the test pants on me, at about the hip area or a tiny bit below, a portion of the back pant leg comes forward for about 19″ or so down along the side seam.  Both sides do this. It starts with a little fabric coming forward at or just below the hip area gradually increases and then eventually tapers to nothing approximately at the 19″ mark.  It doesn’t look flattering at all. It has the appearance of English riding pants.  Are there any suggestions to eliminate this and keeping the side seams plumb?

Also, looking at the back of the pants on me, at the back left inseam, there are two diagonal wrinkles on each leg. The first set begins on the left leg about 4″-6″ below the crotch line along the inseam and angles down towards the back of my knee area.  The second back left inseam wrinkle is several inches below and angles in the same direction as the first. The second set of wrinkles (looking at me from the back), begin along the right side seam beginning about at the crotch line and angle downward at about the same angle as the left back leg.  The second wrinkle forming along the right back side seam is several inches below the first and follows the same angle.  I know wrinkles indicate something is hanging properly but in my case, what could it be?

I’m looking forward to hearing from you.  I’m learning a lot!!

Thanks,

Anne

Replies

  1. mem | | #1

    I had a similar thing happen with pants I made for my son . I ended up slashing the front pant at the top of the deviation and cutting down the centre front and then adding in a little but long piece of fabric. . Obviously they turned into a test pant but that did fix the problem and his pants lasted longer.Does this problem happen when you makethem out of a stretch woven?. A multitude of fitting problems disappear with stretch wovens!

    It sounds as if you have a fuller front thigh and that this is pulling fabric around to the front at both side and inseams.

    1. fearyenot | | #2

      Hi MEM:

      Thanks for your post.  I went back to the October/November 2004 issue of 'Threads' and looked at the Fitting Column on page 34. The fitting concern posted is that the reader has size 18 hips and size 14 legs.  I'm a size 14 at the hips and either a size 10 or size 8 in the legs.  My basic shape below the waist is basicallly 'wide hips/thin legs'.  I'm thinking I need to experiment with the suggested alterations or just remove some of the fabric from beginning somewhat below the crotch line and maybe just past my knee.   Right now there seems to be a ton of fabric at the both back legs below the crotch line.   

      Do you have any suggestions to keep the side seams plumb with the alteration you did for your son's pants?  I'm making a boot cut shaped leg.  What shape of legs did the pants have that you altered for your son?

      Thanks again!

      Anne

      1. mem | | #3

         I was reading a sewing mag here in Australia  last night and thought of you . They said never take it out othe front of the trouser leg only out of the back . I have done this for myself and it was when following a Palmer Pletch pattern which leads you through how to alter patterns .In this case trousers I think it was a Simplicity one . . I took a very long dart with the point at the crotch line and with the arms extending along the center back of the pant leg This was also the grainline arrow.This was done on the muslin and then I transferred that to the pattern. This kept all seams perpendicular to the floor and the pants were a great fit. following the grian line is essential or the leg will twist.

        1. fearyenot | | #4

          Hi 'mem':

          I've been painting outside and inside doors and the frames recently and started working on my pants again this week.  I've made a lot of improvements.  I must say "Thank God for tracing paper and old sheets" when it comes to pattern alterations and test fabric!  I still have an area where there is too much fabric although now it's within a four inch area right around both hip lines at the side seams. 

          I'm going to look at it again on me and see what else I need to do. 

          I'm getting pretty close!

          Thanks again,

          Anne

          1. SewNancy | | #5

            Good luck to you. I too have been on a quest for the perfect pair of pants, and I am close! I think that a little minor seam adjustments and I'll be there.
            Nancy

          2. Jean | | #6

            I've been taking special notice of how ready-made pants fit on the women I see lately. MOST of them do not fit well at all. Unbelievable!

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