I have 3 questions of concern to me at the moment.
1. Has anyone tried reducing the extended shoulder from the 80’s on a raglan 2-piece sleeve? I’m finding it tricky to establish where the shoulder point is to then reduce the extension as you would with a set in sleeve.
2. Has anyone found a UK source for Hug Snug seam binding?
3. Has anyone (don’t laugh) got a copy of Threads issue no. 75 to spare? I’m interested in the various articles about making dress forms and this is one issue I am missing from my collection.
Any help with these queries would be most appreciated.
I have very strange shaped shoulders and LOVE raglan sleeves because they are so malleable. I don't guess I understand what it is you are saying. If it is RTW you should be able to just put on the garment wrong side out and mark your shoulder tip. If necessary you can just create a dart from the neck to the shoulder to remove excess in that area. You can just mark where your armpit is and remove the excess by tapering into the bodice in one direction and toward the sleeve edge in the other. Other people may have better suggestions, but if you've got a serger you can do what I described in just a few minutes. If I'm way off track, let me know what I'm not understanding.
I don't have a copy of Threads 75 that I can send you but the article regarding "Clone yourself a fitting assistant" was reprinted by Threads in their tips section and several members of the gathering group have commented with additional assistance to others with questions. You might try going through the archives for the commentary. The reprinted article has an http address as follows: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002_p5.asp (I hope this will work for you because I don't really know how to put in links):
I copied it from Threads tips back in 2004. The reprinted excerpt shows two forms of Duct-taping dress forms, a molded papier-mache version and a paper-tape version.
If there are other articles that interest you try the Threads "tips & tricks" or just ask here at the Gatherings for specific advice. Someone will be able to help you. Z-->
Edited 11/23/2007 1:16 am ET by zuwena
Edited 11/23/2007 1:18 am ET by zuwena
Thanks for this. it looks like just what I need. By the way, your link worked perfectly.
Hi, this is my first time in the frame.
I made a paper tape mannequin 2 years ago at a sewing college in the UK, and covered it with lightweight foam (as found in fashion bra cups). This made it easy to pin into and drape garments on, without too much worrying about ease.
I made a 2 height stand with a parasol base and plastic drainpipes and connectors, so I can offset the support when making trousers.
But best of all, when I lost 30lbs in weight, I could see exactly where I had been hiding it, and so where to make adjustments on my garments. It also helps to keep me out of the fridge!
About trying to change an 80's-style extended-shoulder raglan sleeve, are you talking about altering an existing garment, or altering a commercial pattern?
I'm trying alter a number of existing coats. I should probably also have said that I'm not happy with the very deep armhole either but could make the coats shorter from the neck if necessary.
I think you may really have a job ahead of you! I assume the broad, thick shoulder pads used in the 80's are in these coats you want to alter? The 2-piece raglan sleeve - does it have a seam down the middle of the sleeve, running across the shoulder and down the arm? If so, perhaps that seam is the one you want to alter, after the pads are out, removing some of the space allowed for the pads, and bending the seam over the end of the shoulder to remove some of the extension. I hope someone else will chime in with some good advice for you - I bet you'd love to be able to wear those coats again!
Question 1: Yes, I have tried just that alteration, but it has never worked well. I will be looking forward to any suggestions!
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