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A question for any tailors out there

xstpenguin | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi All

I’m attending a class in Hand Tailoring, but I don’t have access to my college tutor at the moment.  I’m making a black wool jacket with a viscose satin lining. I’m having some problems with pockets – the ones in the lining.

The diagrams in my college notes, and the instructions in the Vogue pattern I’m using, don’t make it clear whether you stitch two parallel lines either side of the line you will slash open.  Or whether you stitch a box right round – wish I could draw you a diagram! – and slash within the box to the corners.

Also I’ve seen jackets (shop called Austin Reed, here in the UK) that has a small triangular flap to cover a ribbon loop and button on one of the larger pockets.  I’m uncertain how the top of this triangle would be attached.  The method for forming welts/jetts that I’m accustomed to is to fold the pocket fabric over the cut edges and sink-stitch from the outside.  Does this apply even with the extra triangle in the top edge?

I hope my explanations are clear enough for you to answer my questions!




  1. mem1 | | #1

    When ever I have made pockets in the lining I have just made them in the same way that I would in the shell fabric.So I would do the box ! The second bit of you ? I am bit lost with.

  2. KathleenFasanella | | #2

    I've got a multi-part welt pocket tutorial up on my website. Included are the pattern pieces etc.
    In order:

    Be sure to read the comments at the close of each posting. You can also go discuss them on the bulletin board:

    Users have been very pleased with the results. It's how we really do it in the apparel industry -as opposed to the way everybody says we do it. It's easier. Try a couple samples. I think you'll be pleased.

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