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add lining to unlined skirt pattern

Lynnelle | Posted in General Discussion on

Greetings Everyone:

I have a skirt pattern that does not have a lining.  How do I add one?  I’ve tried searching the internet, but unfortunately my search techniques do not return the best sites.

If someone has a site or can reference an old Threads article, I’d really appreciate it.




  1. User avater
    susannah_sews | | #1

    Hi Lynnelle

    What sort of skirt?  A number of my skirt patterns have the lining cut on the same pattern pieces as the skirt itself, and this is how I have approached cutting a lining for unlined skirts.  If the skirt has a waistband, the band is applied to both skirt and lining (basted together along the waist seam allowance).  With skirts with no waistband, one pattern I have (which also uses the skirt pattern as the pattern for the lining) attaches the lining to the skirt (right sides together) with stay tape along the seam.  The lining is then turned to the inside, seam allowances clipped and graded, and then the lining edgestitche on the inside.  You could cut a facing, but having the lining all the way to the waist reduces bulk and slides nicely over other garments.

    Drafting a lining for skirts with more complicated design features (pleats, gathers etc) might be more complicated, but you could probably use a slip pattern (or a straight skirt pattern) and attach it at the waist.  This would give a lining without adding bulk. 



  2. diday | | #2

    Here are two articles about linings on the Threads website.

    A Shortcut to Great Linings

    Add a Lining to Your Custom Pleated Skirt

  3. Lynnelle | | #3

    The skirt is a simple, straight skirt with a split.  I saw one technique where the lining is attached at the hem.  I'm not too sure about this, though...  Thanks for all of the valuable information!     -Lynnelle

    1. SewNancy | | #5

      Sandra Betzinas book Power Sewing has how to line a straight skirt, how to underline and how to attach at the split, which should be attached or you will see the lining. You should consider underling and lining a straight skirt as it will hold up better with little or no wrinkling and will wear forever. I like to use silk organza myself. You don't need the really expensive sort, http://www.Banksvilledesignerfabrics.com sells it in white and black just for underling. Also, http://www.thesewingplace. It also takes the strain off seams if the fabric is at all loosely woven or weak, as in the case of silk shantung. Using a glue stick in the sas simplifies adding it to the fabric.

      1. Lynnelle | | #6

        Thank you SO SO much for the assistance.  I am printing your suggestions and can't wait to try it!


        1. User avater
          susannah_sews | | #7

          Hi Lynelle

          How did you go with drafting a lining for your skirt pattern?  What worked for you - and do you have a photo of the finished item?



  4. promdressesrme | | #4

    Hi Lynnelle,

    You can do a couple of things.  You can underline your skirt or you can line it (or BOTH!).  Underlining a skirt is best if your fabric needs to be stablized or needs additional body to drape properly.  To underline you cut out basically a second skirt out of a lining fabric.  When working on wool, for example, I underline the skirt with a woven cotton fabric or a cotton/polyester.  The technique is simple, you match up and baste your underlining to your fashion fabric wrong sides together and treat them as one piece of fabric. 

    To line your skirt, just cut out a second skirt from the same pattern pieces you used for your fashion fabric.   Sew your darts, Stitch up your side, front, and back seams.  Now joint the two skirts together at the waist wrong sides together.   Put on your facing or waistband.  Hem them separately.

    NOTE:  If you have a zipper, sew the lining up just like your skirt switching to a basting stitch where you would be placing your zipper.  Press your seams open.  You will later open the basting and hand stitch the lining down to your zipper making sure you keep well enough away from the zipper so as not to catch your lining in it.

    If you have say kick-pleats at the bottom of your skirt or ruffles, etc. I redraw the skirt to create the lining pattern pieces.  To do that I trace the pattern pieces on tissue (or whatever)  from the waist UP TO the point at which the lines of the pattern deviate to form that fashion element.  Put a ruler on your lines and continue the lines of the skirt down to the hem.  Make sure you follow the angle out long enough to reach the bottom of your skirt.  If this is a tight fitting skirt and you need those kick-pleats in order to walk, I'd consider underlining you skirt instead of trying to figure out how to make a lining that will have enough room.

    Hope this helps

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