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adding bust darts

jodfur | Posted in General Sewing Info on

hi all other females who sew, perhaps some of you could help me with my sewing question which is in regard to adding bust darts to  blouse pattern that has none. my pattern has a front yoke in two pieces which forms the top of the blouse, which attaches to a single large piece on the bottom half. my question is when i add the bust darts to the two front yoke pieces, do i also have to add  length  only to the bottom of the yoke pieces or or to only the single bottom piece which makes the blouse bottom half, either of which the lenthening would be same measurement as the dart depth? 

question two if i’m adding bust darts to a blouse pattern with a front that’s only in a single piece would I have to add length to the blouse bottom, which would be the same mesurement as the dart depth?

question 3 Is it necessary to add bust darts to unitard excercise wear that’s made of cotton/lycra? or will this type of fabric stretch to fit over a large bust even without darts?

Replies

  1. kayl | | #1

    I'm not quite sure I understand your questions.  In the first blouse, the yoke seamline probably has the dart in it already.  It sounds to me that what you're really asking about is an adjustment for a larger than B cup size.  Is this the issue?

    In your third question, the answer is "it all depends"... partially on how much stretch factor the fabric has, how much larger your bust is than the B cup most patterns allow for, and how the pattern was drafted: some patterns for stretchy knits are drafted with considerable negative ease (most swimming suits, for instance, are smaller than the wearer's measurements -- helps keep things together in the water. <g>)

    Anyhow, what I think you're asking is about making an adjustment for a larger than average bust size for a dartless pattern.  If so, I think you'll find some of the information on the Threads website, probably under "fitting".  And yes, if you're adjusting for a larger cup size, you generally need to add both length and width to the bodice.

    It is possible to retain the dartless form of the dartless block while still allowing for larger cup sizes... what happens is that part of the dart control is turned into extra ease, usually a bit in the shoulder, a bit in the neckline, a bit in the armscye and a bit in the waist. However, the more unsewn dart control you have, the more you'll see of gappiness or wrinkles.  The only way I know to avoid that gappiness or sagging is to drape the pattern, and work with it until you can everything smoothed out perfectly -- which can be a major challenge.  But it is possible.

     

    Kay

     

     

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