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Adjustments to crotch seam

Stitchwitch | Posted in Fitting on

I have just completed a pair of trousers, generally the fit is very good but being the perfectionsit I am, there is one slight fitting problem I have. If you look from behind (only) it seams like there is excess fabric in the lower section of the crotch seam. The seam seams to be making two little “walls” on either side of the crotch.  Also it is bundling around the upper end of the thigh area from behind. How do I correct this?

Does this mean because there is excess fabric that I need to remove fabric in these areas?

Replies

  1. sewpro | | #1

    Threads has a good article about fitting pants- just one or two issues back. It will really help you pinpoint the solution to your particular problem. Good luck.

  2. mem | | #2

    I sounds to me as if the back leg is too wide I had a similar problem which I solved by taking two vertical "darts " out of the width along the centre  of each back  leg piece. The height of the Dart depends on how high the bunching happens up each buttock.You wont be able to fix this on the pantswhich you have finished but you can use these to make a better pattern.

  3. mimi | | #3

    Stitchwitch:  Could this be the result of a "flat" bottom?  If so, there is nothing you can do with the pants you have already made (except maybe "falsies", they still sell them!).  If you really like the pattern otherwise, make a muslin next time and correct the fit on the pattern.

    I have a rather flat bottom myself.  After watching the olympics last night, I realize I should have taken up figure skating!  Not a flat bottom among them;)

    mimi

  4. SewNancy | | #4

    Try pinning out the center back seam and see how it fits. If this works just measure and mark the inside and sew the new crotch line.
    I am working on a pants muslin using the method in the 2 articles in threads and finally, a perfect bottom on a very imperpect bottom! I have a very flat rear with very low seat and this has been a major pain to fit and I am having good luck following the Threads article.
    Nancy

    1. SewTruTerry | | #5

      Also having a good pattern such as Silhouettes Pleated Pants pattern #3000. I have just made the muslin from this one and I really love the fit.  The best part of it is that they have taken a lot of the guess work out of not only the measuring process but also the final fitting and have added the information in not only the instructions but also on the pattern itself. 

      1. User avater
        Thimblefingers | | #6

        Mimi, skating does wonders for the glutes of us flat-bottomed girls.  I'm way too old to even think about taking up figure skating (even my daughter is too old to take up figure skating!) but I stop at an outdoor rink on my way home from work a couple times a week just to do a few rounds on the pond.  The results on the bottom end are amazing and the fresh air is invigorating!

        1. mimi | | #7

          I skated a little when I was young, but that was a long time ago!  There are only two ice skating rinks in my skate, neither of which is near my town.  We have not had a hard enough freeze for the lake in town to be skate-able in several years.  That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it:)

          I have a feeling that being flat-bottomed is one of those genetic traits that can be fought against but rarely won.  It's a good thing that I have such a sparkling personality!

          mimi

          1. mem | | #8

            actually it just happens because as we age unless we make a particular effort the gluteal muscles shrink!! If you lie flat on your tummy on the floor and then lift you STRAIGHT leg up behind you and you do this about 20 times on each side each day for about 6 weeks, you can grow them again so depending on the ease of pattern alteration it may be worth doing that???

          2. offerocker | | #10

            Thanks for that, Mem!

            Now, what can you suggest for a tummy?  I'm 5'6", 135 lbs at best, and have a pot, with no children to blame.  I guess I'll blame it on my scoliosis, ha ha, which also makes pattern fitting a problem, as I'm not symetrical.  Stretching and posture helps, but it's still "there".  These days of relaxed clothing/dressing helps some.

            I recently purchased a CD called "Trousers Draft" by Kenneth D. King.  Has a 'thousand' measurements to take.  Now, I need to find someone knowledgeable who can assist me!  It IS well-written, and in the form of a manual.   Will let you all know how it works out - someday, LOL

          3. mem | | #11

            Well I guess you need to add into the length of the front crotch seam as it needs to go over your pot Again you slash across the top of the troser front . I would look at how far below your waist line the pot starts and this would be your first slash then if it is alot you need to add in I would do it agin over the length of the pot till you get to the waist .Then open them up to get to the length that you need to get from the waist to inner leg crotch point without it pulling . What will happen is that your front waist will curve up acording to how big the pot is.Dont just add it to the top though as I think its better to add it in according to where the fabric is needed

          4. offerocker | | #12

            Thanks, mem!  Lots of work, but will be worth it.  Will also need to measure each hip to seat separately, as one hp is slightly higher than other.  I Appreciate your assistance.

          5. SewNancy | | #13

            Try a Burda pattern and use the 2 recent articles on pants fitting in Threads. The best and easiest method I have yet come across for my very imperfect body.
            Nancy

          6. offerocker | | #14

            THANK YOU !!!  I'll do that !  I won't be surprised if I come out with 4 pattern pieces - but the results will be worth it!

      2. user-105646 | | #9

        I just finished a pair of wool pants with this same pattern.  I also have the flat bottom problem.  I followed the crotch adjustment and they fit perfectly

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